james caruso
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there is no rocket science to the chameleon paints. just base your project in black first then 3-4 coats of chameleon. it sprays like any other basecoat.
.008 is what i would consider medium sized and the max i will go with basecoat binder.
i find most of sikkens clears to lay out better than any other clears i have ever used. superior 250, hs+ and autoclear pc are all awesome. the superior is just a nightmare if you have to sand and buff it. as jayson said 40 psi is alot. i shoot all those clears with the same gun as you but with a 1.4 and i am running it at 30 psi.
i do the same as artspray and use clear base binder as a carrier for flake. i almost never spray large flake though. small or micro sized flake. anything bigger or chunky and i will use clearcoat as a carrier. you are using envirobase though so waterborne paints are a bit different. i dont think i would use a clear water binder as a carrier for flake. i could be wrong but i dont think waterborne is stable or meant to be applied with a high film build with alot of coats. that is why you usually dont see it used for custom painting.
good media blasting equipment cost big money. far more than $500. my pot isnt an expensive one at all and was almost $4k. cheap pots usually use plumbing fittings like regular ball valves to regulate media flow. these tend to clog or maybe work for awhile then stop because they wear. a good pot will have an actual mixing valve with internal carbide or hardened steel components. as for your compressor 12 cfm is very small but can probably work for doing small parts like the size of your hand, etc. anything larger will take a very long time. my compressor will do 30cfm and for blasting even that is very small. i would never want to do a whole car with it. i have done complete cars but had to hook my pot to a 185 cfm diesel compressor. with all that said though im not saying you wasted $500. it depends on what your expectations are. if you just want to do small items like brackets, etc then its fine. the clogging may be due to how you have it tuned. try throttling the valve closed a little going to the bottom of the pot. this will allow less air going out your main line and put just a little pressure in the tank so its pushing the media a little. basically lowers the psi in the output line and raises the tank psi. clogging can also be from your media. it can be poorly sifted and have irregular crap in it or maybe its a little damp and doesnt fall into the airstream right. your supply air from the compressor needs to be perfectly dry. if not you will always have a clogging issue.
yeah that doesnt sound right at all for a polyester. that would mean the same thing would apply to bodyfillers, gelcoat, laminating resin and everything else. MOST poly primers arent for bare metal anyway even though you can do it. most manufactures want it over something like epoxy. there are exceptions though like the clausen stuff.
hmmm, are you sure your not confusing that with polyurethanes? polyurethanes/urethanes do as they cure. as far as i know polyesters do not. neither one requires baking.
someone told me a year ago about ppg’s new matte clear that was supposed to be like this. i really dont believe this at all. sikkens has their new matte additive which is this clear jelly and probably the same basic thing as what ppg uses in their matte clear. its actually a resin which intermixes with the clear and its supposed to be flat all the way through the paint film. i spray alot of matte so ilast year they had me do some pre release testing on the stuff. it worked good but to test that it was flat all the way through i did try and buff it. while i didnt get it to a complete 100% shine like a gloss clear it did still buff out and make a shiny spot where i buffed. you would certainly not be able to denib it and buff the spot. it would be plain as day.
its just polyester primer so treat it no different than any other poly. i think they say you can paint right on it but so do all the other companies. i wouldnt base on it. polyesters you should at a minimum put a sealer over before base.
i have 3 of the 3m sanders here with the filter bags. i used the the bags and purple discs for all of 3 days. after that i took a rubber plug and stuck it in the air output of the sander and never used it since. it works great for all of 5 minutes. as soon as the bag gets a slight amount of dust in in them they are clogged and the whole system doesnt work anymore. you literally have to change bags every 2-3 pieces of sandpaper. the whole system sux. you really need a powered vacuum of some sort for any sander. all these bag systems are a bunch of bs.
well i dont get that exactly. i have worked myself out of doing stuff for that kind of customer….most of the time. its taken a long time. i do however still get the occasional person that squeezes through the cracks and no matter what i will be too expensive but that is how i filter out the riff raff. there is a shop about 1/2 hour from me the does the dirt cheap crappy work. let him deal with all those people. he will always be dealing with those people because of the kind of work he chooses to do.
well thats hok for ya. they really are a poor company who never did give a crap about anyone. ive sprayed probably 20 gallons of majic blue over the years and can say for certain it takes 5 coats to fully cover so you will need more than what the guy painting may be used to. im bad at judging amounts but 4 quarts is probably cuttin it close. if it was just the outside then maybe but with jambs, under hood and truck……i would get 6. despite what hok will tell you you can use any good high quality reducer in it as well as any good clearcoat over it. the pbc colors mix 2:1 so 4 quarts of color need 2 quarts of reducer. if you have a local basf jobber you can get that color mixed right out of the carizzma line and it will cover about 25% better. its czz-105
well good luck with it. be sure to have something with the original color on it in the booth while you are spraying. cant match a candy without having something for a side by side comparison since every coat gets darker and darker.
i have many years in the marine industry and i gotta say the boat guys are so stuck on the name imron its not even funny. people dont have to know anything at all about paint and yet they know it MUST have imron on it if it floats. there are so many other paints out there that are better. when it comes to paint the marine industry is way behind the times. i have painted small boats that range from $20k to large luxury yachts over $5-7mil. as long as you use good quality products it will be fine. last boat i did was a $200k chris craft. brand new off the showroom floor. used spi epoxy as a sealer, wanda base and spi clear. sanded and buffed. looks great and as durable or more than the single stage they had on it from the factory.
as some guys already mentioned, not all 2k primers can be used as a sealer. in general a primer that can be used that way will have much finer ground fillers and pigment so they spray smoother. some primer will also have a tendency to shrink up when used wet and wet when they were not designed to do so. there are some sealers that spray like a primer while there are others that spray more like a clearcoat and are glossy. i believe rm’s dp31 is like this. i am not a fan of this type but might work great for production shops. depends on you but all in all i like sealers. better adhesion and a nice even surface to base on. on the custom side of things its not really optional. you have to use it when doing candy jobs etc because if your primer is sanded too thin over top of filler work then the filler can suck they dye right out of the binder.