james caruso
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you know i saw an iroc the other day with historic plates. you wanna talk about feelin old…wow
me and everyone i know uses poly on their restos. very little if any shrinkage. only first round though. i will put 2k over it almost always but there have been times on smaller parts where i might finish it out to 400-600g, spray a coat of epoxy sealer on it and base. eliminating the whole 2k step. no issues there as well. everything comes out equally well in the end. as for using poly on the second round wow thats a lot of work. if it needs primer again i end with 180-220 on the poly then a quick couple coats of urethane 2k, sand and its ready to go. i believe the poly i use says you can base right on it but i have never done it. i always shoot a thin coat of sealer anyway.
i have used many types of masking vinyl here in the shop. the oracal 810 is the one you want. its reall nice stuff. they make an 810s that is for solvent paints….dont use it. you want 810. 810s wont stick to anything. 810 is good and if you use the 810 itself as the transfer tape its nice and stretchy so it conforms better than any other over compound curves. avery yellow spray mask is nice too if you need a little higher tack.
on the bike side of things, harley does this ALOT! out of all the harley tanks and fenders i have painted over the years i would say 50% have been painted 2-3 times. just as you guys say though, its glossy between layers but harley’s paint i can usually scrape or peel off once feathered out so its not stuck that good at all. i have been told that their clear is like a powdercoat process by a couple people. not sure how true it is.
i have had desiccant type systems and once i got a refrigerated unit i never looked back. ref ones are so much nicer and almost maint free. you didnt mention what the air filter you had was. if it is a desiccant type then your media needs changing (the white beads…activated alumina). water forms in the lines when the air temp cools so at the gun its cooling and the moisture is condensing and dripping. desiccant, if good can pull uncondensed moisture out of the air if its not real excessive. as for the other filter stages, they cannot. the air must cool for the water to condense and be filtered out.
nick, definately not a procedure for a normal production shop. for me almost everything is flowcoated but very rarely do i ever do a single color job so i need to flow coat anyway for a smooth finish that you cant feel the paint edges on. some stuff is cleared 2,3 or 4 times. on most restorations i do though as well as all the other shops i know of that do nice restorations, they all flowcoat unless the customer is on a super tight budget or timeline.
:rofl
clearing, blocking smooth then reclearing. that second round would be a flowcoat.
like artspray said, kawi and most factory paint on bikes is very thin. most of the factory candies they put on fade right out in a couple few years from lack of uv protection. i have a feeling if you sand the part you will see there is indeed some orange peel in it. its just that the parts are small and mostly concaved which helps you not see the peel so much and the clear naturally lays smoother on parts like that as well.
3/8 is more aggressive for roughing in filler etc. most mud hogs are 3/8 orbit. 3/32 is fine for someone who is colorsanding clearcoat that doesnt have much experience or feel for a da yet. it is real slow goin. i had one and sold it after a week. i know 3m recommends 3/16 for all their color sanding products not the 3/32.
for orbit size 3/16 is what you want. dont get a 3/32. they are about useless.
yeah difference being one is paint and the cerakoat is ceramic. ceramics are always a bit pricy but do work much better. may be a bit overkill for a bbq grill, i have no idea. if he just want a quick, cheap red finish on it that he doesnt mind redoing every year then the regular high heat paint should fit the bill. not sure how hot those get but i would imagine anywhere where there was fire or coals touching the metal it would easily reach 1200deg. again just guessing but if the metal gets cherry red when hot then your in that temp ballpark.
a really nice high temp coating is house of kolors hh-04. looks great, easy to apply. good for over 1200deg and relatively inexpensive for a ceramic coating. there is also this company http://www.cerakotehightemp.com. they make nice stuff as well but a little more pricey. they have it in colors though. hok is only black.
cant say i have ever seen anything come out of china that i would consider quality by any stretch of the imagination. maybe this company is trying to do thing different though. only way to know is to buy one of the guns, try it and compare.
right now i cant think of a more kick a$$ job than testing bombs for the govt. thats awesome :rock