james caruso
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i have heard alot of good things about the 105. i might have to try it out and compare.
i checked my bottle and its the g4 not the 3 so i guess that explains why i did not like it. i see the rest of you didn’t like it either. the newest 3m compound is the one jimmo gave the part # for. its the 3m performance perfect-it rubbing compound. its a reformulation of the perfect-it 3000 compound. its very difficult to keep up with all their changes. it is a really nice compound though. expensive but i use 1/2 of what i use in presta so really comes out to be the same.
i have used the farecla stuff here. if i rememebr right it was the g3. i could not get that stuff to cut worth a crap. i get way faster results with either presta or the new 3m compound. presta is really messy but works really good. i do agree the original perfect it 3 and 3000 were terrible. perfect-it 2 and the new stuff in the purple bottle is really good. its funny how when it comes to buffing everyone always gets different results.
i have 3 dynabrades. two are the red automotive line and one is the black industrial line. one red and one black are both about 15 years old and used all day every day. i recently rebuilt them so they were completely disassembled down to every bearing in the motor and everything. i saw ablsoutely no difference between the two of them. every part was exactly the same except for color…..atleast what i could see.
i do notice that the black one is slightly less rpm when i use it. i dont know what that is due to. maybe a bearing is just a little tighter or maybe its in the design, i have no idea but i saw no difference. they even took the same motor rebuild kit.
i’m with you bloverby, i bought a brand new dynabrade 3/32 and cant stand it. all my sanders are dynabrade and 3/16, i use that orbit for everything from filler to colorsanding and it works great. the small orbit is just so slow and i saw no difference in buffing or the finish i got. i was recently at a 3m seminar and the rep comfirmed all 3/16 for all their finishing films and trizact.
nice work!!
i love polyester, i dont base directly on it though. i use it where you would use a glaze or need a light filling. i cut it with some 150 then urethane primer over it.
problem is anybody that knows anything about them or refurbishes anything for them are all dead or dying. steering wheels for instance, there is only one guy left in the country that redoes the ivory on them and he is on his way out. afer he kicks it, thats it!! quite a few of the cars he has have some good history. two of them were the personal limo for the ambassador of france and japan. he has all the paperwork to go along with them. another one was a model they only made 4 of so that also is another big dollar car.
[b]RatStang wrote:[/b]
[quote]I heard the cost for the refills is a little unrealistic.[/quote]:rofl of course it is…its 3m!!
funny i just started a 41 caddy the other day. got it back from the blaster and got it in black epoxy. of course you cant get anything for the car so all the patch panels need to be hand made. most of the bottom of the car needs to be refabricated. the owner of the car only collected 41 caddys. he has around 100 of them. right now i am scheduled to do 3. we’ll see how many others he decides to do down the road.
could be old, cap left off for a while last time you used it or some of the solvents they put in to make the cat had a high moisture content. if that was off spec it will cause premature hardening and can easily happen.
yeah believe it or not the euro is the same resin as well. the hardness mostly comes from the activator i guess. i think the extra 10% reducer when it gets cold helps reduce runs because you can put a wet coat on thinner.
i wouldn’t say euro is a better product. barry has a ton of products and all are good. it boils down to which clear is good for my situation and what i am trying to accomplish. what you do, what i do and what the rest of the guys on the forum here do are all different and so is the spray conditions. each situation is unique. the euro does take much longer to get out of dust. it stays tacky longer which is better for anyone working in a real paintbooth that moves alot of air as with most bodyshops. i will tell you for just a sprayed finish i can get the euro looking better then any of the other clears, even the universal and i have sprayed hundreds of gallons of universal. the turbo is a softer clear just like the universal and others so its nice and buffs easier. it kicks off quick as well. the euro however might take longer to kick off BUT when it does it kicks off harder getting harder faster then the turbo. i have done a couple sportbikes with euro mixed 4:1:1. i did 4 coats of it. they were probably the 2 best “unbuffed” jobs i ever did. the reasoning i have been using euro for my first round is the hardness. when i do a job it could have 8-20 coats of clear by the time its done. with a softer clear and that kind of film build it will fingernail or imprint easily for a long time. with the majority of it being done in euro, it hardens up nicely then my flowcoat is done with ms clear which is easy to buff. with you doing mobile work i would still stick with the turbo and some polar. i doubt euro would work the best for you. i guess that is why barry has so many clears. something for everyone.
i do like the turbo. i have used that for years as well on smaller stuff. now that the euro has come out though i have kinda phased out the turbo and switched to euro.
yes that has been a big discussion over the past few years. DO NOT use any type of acid treatment on the bare metal this includes picklex or any other brand. they all leave an invisible film behind that keeps the metal from rusting. the film works like a release agent. your epoxy isn’t bonded to the metal, just the film. ding is right, get each panel or spot to bare metal and coat it in epoxy even if you brush it on 1 area at a time.