james caruso
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- September 11, 2009 at 1:10 am #15860
thanks!! i really should do more of those. the key is for me to remember to take pics as the job progresses. i am so forgetfull that it never happens.
September 11, 2009 at 1:06 am #15859yeah my powdercoater does ceramics like jethot. its just like a regular paint you spray on then bake at around 600deg.
September 10, 2009 at 3:10 pm #15845spray welding has been around for a long time. i have seen it used to resurface crank journals on remanufactured cranks where the bearing journals are pitted or too small. they will spray weld more material onto it and return the journal down. is it good…..well it wasn’t the best for that situation because occasionaly it would peel but that is an area of extreme wear and abuse. i would imagine it could work really well on autobody but who knows.
September 6, 2009 at 9:00 pm #15741thanks guys. time you ask??? hmmm. you know i try to not keep track because if i did i would probably be sick. actually it went pretty quick. we can breeze through paintwork like that around here. now if i had to do all the bodywork, thats when it drags on and on. if i had to guess 2.5weeks i guess. 80-100hours. the airbrushing the skulls and stuff is what really took the longest especially the mural on the trunk lid. if i left that stuff out of there could have done it in 40-50.
September 1, 2009 at 2:17 am #15623there is a formula for 102 in uno as well (rm’s ss). you should not have to order it special. just about any basf jobber should be able to mix either 22 or uno for you right there.
August 30, 2009 at 12:02 am #15581uv clears have been around a long time. i remember back when i worked for viking yachts probabaly 10 or 11 years ago they switched over to uv polyurethane clear. kicked in seconds….just dont open the can ouside in the sun. it would start smoking!! :cheer: company called chemcraft made it.
August 25, 2009 at 10:20 pm #15518i agree, probably no base clear. stick with ss. uno or 22 should work out pretty good.
August 18, 2009 at 3:24 am #15397oh yes. those are the tape marks. the red was spi’s base before they stopped making it. my complaint about that stuff was it was too soft as well. not as soft as the sg but soft and it took a long time to harden up. i very rarely used their stuff for graphics. certain bases will have a tendency to this. isn’t omni a enamel type basecoat? these are the type you need to stay away from. the harder polyester type bases can still do it if it hasn’t hardened up but you should see much less of it these types of bases. i use diamont here in the shop and if i let that sit a couple hours or more i dont get any type of tape marks. same as with hok. although it depends on how heavy it was put on and # of coats. you may need to wait overnight on some projects. on solid color bases the marks will completely disappear when cleared. on medium to light metallics and pearls the marks probably wont disappear. applying a nice hard intercoat clear over your base then letting it dry a couple hours will keep this from happening and if it does its really not a big deal because the marks are on the intercoat clear and not in the nice metallic base you just put down. its really no different than your clearcoat fingerprinting when its still soft. once its nice and hard no problem.
August 17, 2009 at 9:05 pm #15388well if you shoot say 1 light coat over something you probabay wont see any problem as well as if you were to airbrush with it. the more coats you put on the bigger the chance of failure. if you do a coat on something and you are noticing how gummy it is at room temp i magine how soft it would get on a black paintjob sitting in the sun all day long. 1 mil too much on the thickness and it will release. i would usually have a problem with it on sportbikes around all the vent holes on the side fairings where engine heat comes out or on a flake job. it just doesn’t have the strength to bind small flake together and it will release as well. its not expensive stuff, take whatever you have left and dump it. consider yourself lucky and move on to a different product. like i said spi’s is very good, ppg has a couple, basf has bc00 or bc100 and i’m sure every other paint company out there has them as well.
August 17, 2009 at 4:01 pm #15386your problem is sg100. you should not be using that product. it has major problems. tape will always leave marks in it. problem is that it is a very weak, soft and gummy paint. even after a few days it just wont harden up. at one time i had a gallon lying around here where there was some on the top of the can around the cap. it sat for 6 months or more and i could still easily stick my findernail in it and scrape it off. i have seen so many paintjobs fail from the use of it its not even funny. if the part gets out in the sun or is near exhaust….anywhere it will get hot the sg will get so soft your clear delaminates and bubbles off. anyway i stopped using it years ago. this was the main reason i pushed barry from spi to make his intercoat clear. i did a bunch of testing for him on it. you can tape on it in 15-30 min and it wont leave marks. its really nice stuff. give that a try or stick with the same brand of paint you normally use. why do you think hok came out with sg150??
August 17, 2009 at 4:54 am #15384hmmm, i cant say i have noticed any discoloration. sometimes tape will leave marks in the base if the base has not hardened up all the way but with any good base system it should be dry enough to put tape on in 5 hours and not leave marks. i dont know if the “marks” are what you are refering to or you are seeing an actual color difference. many times i will shoot a color in the afternoon and i will wait until the next morening and mask right on it with no problems and many times i dont use an intercoat clear at all. what paint do you usually use?
August 14, 2009 at 2:48 pm #15357[b]Jayson M wrote:[/b]
[quote]I don’t mind it,I could think of worse things to spray.[/quote]well thats the most positive thing i have heard yet! :lol1
August 14, 2009 at 4:51 am #15355brad is pretty much right on and waht he said is a great way to start out. i will say this though. its a coating and just like anything in the coatings industry to do it right professionally requires good equiptment and there is a learning curve. not as big as paint but there is one. doing small parts for yourself is one thing but when you are starting to do it professionally its another. the cheapo guns from eastwood and harbor freight are fine for a beginner just as their spray guns are. if you start getting calls where you need to do real nice stuff then that type of equiptment wont cut it. a detailer friend of mine started advertising doing wheels as a service for his customers with curb scuffs, stuff like that. 9mos later he is up to his $5g powdercoat gun, 2 large ovens, one is walk in. does 2-4 sets of wheels a day along with just about any other thing you can imagine. has commercial accounts doing parts for manufacturing companies. it has snowballed like crazy in a short amount of time!! i would never have guessed there was such a high demand.
August 14, 2009 at 4:37 am #15354ha, my neighbor, the sikkens rep will tell you their stuff is the best on the planet. funny thing is i have never heard one person that uses it say it was any good.
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