james caruso
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thats pretty cool. its funny the cardboard doesnt burn. what are the panels used for?
yes i know its not made for or marketed for t-shirts. what i said is its not much different than the acrylics for t-shirts. its the same basic type of paint.
i have to agree with artspray. its not much different than any other acrylic airbrush paints made for t-shirts. i can say i dont use it here in my shop. i have tried it many times and while its safer to use it cant compare to solvent basecoats.
of course i dont do the production thing and i dont personally know anything about the waterborne bases other than to airbrush with it but i do talk to alot of painters from many different shops in the area and can say that atleast here where the humidity is 90+% all summer long, every shop that has switched over has had the system removed no matter what brand because it just doesnt work. the one shop had a high end global booth put in with all the blowers and they said it would just be wet forever. that shop was using autowave which i have only heard good things about from most of you guys on here. from what i gather the water systems are probably fine in some areas and not others. really boils down to the climate you are in. i have hard about the low voc solvent onyx. can wait to hear your guys reviews on that in the future.
i have to agree with most of you guys here. i have the hutchins inline. i dont use it often but it comes in handy in the right places on the right type of panel. great for resto work on the cars from 50’s to 70’s that have large flat hoods and doors. the hutchins is top heavy and just heavy all together but it is built very well and really solid and smooth. i only use it on initial cut and with 36 grit norton blue airfile sheets. agree with you guys on the norton too. the airfiles i think are very slow to cut. an 8″ mud hog would be way faster and prob work just as well. i can however get a panel with thin metal that flexes flatter with the airfile than i can by hand like nft said. your not pushing a board across the panel flexing it. your just gently and slowly working things flat with little pressure
well of all the stuff that guy said the most important thing is that he wipes it down with water, a scotchbrite or resands it when he is all done. if you leave any acid or the zinc film behind your primer is going to peel in sheets. seen it time and time again. you really need to watch yourself with that. problem is when you wash the fim off with water and a scotchbrite your just going to flash rust again…….real bad so imo what is the point. your better off sanding a panel and epoxy then sand another and epoxy and so on.
on another note, what the hell kind of resto shop doesnt have 80 grit!!
if its true flash rust your talking about, the stuff that forms when its humid in a mater of a few hours then as long as your using a good quality epoxy it will instantly choke that off. flash rust is usually faint and a bright orange and when you wipe your hand over the panel it will come off on your fingers. basically dont worry about it. if its pits in the metal or rust that has been there a while then thats a different story. stay away from the acid treatments. they usually leave a film behind that acts more like a coat of wax and your primer will only be bonded to the film. primer will usually flake right off of it. only product i have found that works really well is the metal treatment wipes from sikkens. henkle actuall makes them. they work fantastic though and dont screw with the adhesion of your primer.
harley can be tough. they dont give out any paint codes or formulas not to mention they change colors like crazy. they could have had 4 different blues extremely similar in color in a 6 month time frame. you never know with them. the only formulas from any of the paint companies are the ones their color labs happen to do a match on. also in many cases harley will have a pigment or flake specifically made for them that isnt available on a ppg, basf or any other rack. i do alot of matching of harley colors and in 90% of the cases i match by eye and make my own formula. just find the closest color chip you have and start from there. it can be quite a challenge at times and easy others. with that said, if time is money on this thing and the color is going to be difficult or your not so good at making your own formulas then it might just save you alot of time to just get it from the harley dealer.
nice job scott. looks great
epoxy primer is the way to go. its the only totally waterproof primer. epoxy seals everything out. moisture slowly works its way through etch and 2k urethanes. you also gotta get all that enamel tractor paint off that thing. your going to run into trouble mixing that stuff with automotive paint.
scott is right, when repairing like that if you try to keep it small it will look like crap every time. it needs to be blended waaay out. the candy should also be really transparent. it will take alot of coats to get you to full color. you’ll have much more control this way. you should never end at the edge of a body panel anyway. when you were done the panel would end up much darker and not match the panel next to it.
yes you can candy those bodies. im not sure i fully understand what your doing. you said blended, are you repairing the candy thats on them or your shooting the whole thing? i candy oddball and weird shaped parts every day. its not quite as methodical as shooting a car with big flat panels. i find it almost impossible for me to sit here and explain to you how to do it to i guess because i dont really think about. i just go in the booth and do it :unsure: i guess for the most part when shooting something like that i am paying more attention to the color and making sure is even and consistent all the way around.
Jimmo i do know exactly what the guy was talking about with the polishing first but your also going to have peeling issues down the road. Anything beyond 800grit becomes problem.
i have probably done a few hundred lights and never used adpro under any of them. always goto 600-800. usually 800 though is where i like to be with them. i have seen some headlights just buffed and within a couple months start to cloud and turn again and i have seen others last a year like ding said. maybe its just in the plastic they use from different manufacturers, who knows. it really simple to shoot a couple coats of clear on them though. most of the lights i am doing the customers want them tinted as well. just a few drops of black candy in the clear does the trick with that. whats nice is i dont ever remove them. the customers walk in and hand me all the lights they want done. makes it easy
diambert, the harder a clear is the more brittle it tends to be. its more scratch resistant being hard but will chip easier. i would rather buff out swirls and light scratches than fix chips.
haha that guy is pretty sick but thats what happens when you put the same two pinstripes on thousands of tanks.