james caruso
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i have never been a big fan of the beugler. it was fine for me as a beginner to get just ok quality lines out of on projects that werent to critical but it will only get you so good. if you have never pinstriped before in your life it will give you better results than a brush but a little practice with a brush and you will be waaaay better off. i used the beugler a few times and put it away and never used it again.
i gotta agree with all these guys on the platinum. it definately sands much easier than the plus. i like it way better. only problem is everyone always carries the plus. the regular platinum is harder to find. i also use the dolphin glaze. its excatly the same as evercoat metal glaze. only difference is packaging. the evercoat stuff gets thicker and thicker from the first day it sits on the shelf. those squeeze tubs suk for that. the dolphin glaze stays fresh in the foil pouch and thickness stays consistant.
very nice scott!!
my guess would be jayson is prob right. of all the low voc stuff i have sprayed it always need an extra bit of reducer.
i have used glow in the dark additive a few times over the years. never the alsa stuff but its really all the same stuff. not sure what you want to know. its no different that the crap in kids toys. you charge it in the sun then glows in the dark. i find it to be a complete waste on automotive stuff. your car chan charge in the sun all day long but by the time the sun goes down and it completely dark so you can see it the stuff is about dead and barely glows. its cool to pull your car in the garage during the day and turn the lights off and show your friends but that thrill is over in about 10 min.
i havent posted in a long time either. i have known a few people who have used this base and of the low voc type bases they have had nothing but good things to say about it. i dont recall anyone saying anything about it spraying dry and gritty. kinda strange. its not a 1:1 mix base that you are mixing 2:1 is it? other than gun issues, incorrect mix or incorrect temp reducer i dont have anything else useful to add since i have not used it myself. :unsure:
i have had really good luck with the evercoat maxim stuff. all epoxy base. flows out real nice and you have some good working time.
my entire gallery is is spi primer and clear with basf for color. been using it for 10 years now. some of the best stuff out there and price is good. kirker i have used as well and is probably one of the worst product line out there. http://www.xtremekreations.com
clear always likes to gather on an edge so while the rest of the clear is tacked up that edge can still be wet. slightly lighter coats with a longer flash will help this plus what the other guys said.
i only do custom work. mostly use rm with spi clears and primers. occasionaly i will use hok. its good but i dont like it as much as rm. you can mix matches to all the hok colors right off the rack.
best way to repair atv plastics is with a plastic welder. adhesives and stuff like that dont really work anywhere near as well if at all. it wont be a pretty repair but you said that wont matter. the plastic basically needs to be remelted back together.
i sprayed quite a bit of that years ago. you really dont want to use that clear anyway. that stuff came out in the infancy of super fast curing clears so the technology in it sucks. its dries fast as hell but it also shrinks back like a mother.
Imo they are generally the best. I have never been disappointed with anything from them.
dynabrade makes it but i’m sure it aint cheap either.
i take mine out all the time. sata has a tool for it. not that it works that great and is a pia but i do pull them out and put them back in whenever i soak my guns. it is one of those things though that you should always keep a spare of.