james caruso
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looks good, btw around here the game is called corn hole! you toss the bags that are filled with corn.
its not the clear making the white look yellow, its the pearl. pearls generally will make a white look yellow or creamy if too much is put on. thats the tradeoff really. try to put on as little pearl as you can to get the effect you want. i have a pure snow white pearl that i spray here and the pearl coat i always just mist on 2 coats of pearl real quick. anymore than that and i lose the bright white look. another thing you can try is to counteract some of the yellow effect is to make a white base with a slight blue tint. a very cool white so to speak. when the pearl is put overtop it sort of counteracts the yellow and evens out.
i have done the rebuild kit at least 3 or 4 times on my da’s and also did one on my air buffer. piece of cake to do and no big deal but jayson is right that its much faster for the drop in motor. probably more pricy though. its 5 min compared to 20. i have done it enough where i can do it in 10. i wetsand with mine so that bottom bearing goes or the veins can wear out as well. i refuse to oil any of my tools. i would rather rebuild or buy new than have a fish eye problem spewing oil over the shop.
a nice gloss pure white is the way to go. when mine was new i gave it a coat of white epoxy primer then 2 coats of ss urethane.
Thats the truth. The 3m perfect it compound is the exact same stuff as meg 105 with a little less fillers. It is less but still in there.
I have not heard anything on the 3000 trizact being discontinued. If it has though give eagles bufflex system a try its the same or better and less than half the cost.
i have been through quite a few gallons of meg 105 and it is a great compound BUT of any compound i have ever used that has the most fillers of any of them. panels will look flawless until a day later and you’ll have to go back and buff tons of dull spots.
when it comes to sport bikes i probably paint more of them than anybody. i have painted hundreds. like ding said, if your custom painting you should be using a base/clear system. hok is compliant for california. use that for your color. i have yet to find a better primer or clear system for sport bikes than spi. http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com. the universal clear sprays great, looks great, and stays permanently flexible even with a ton of coats down. buffs easier than any other clear i have used as well. I’ve done jobs with 20 coats of clear and 2 years later i can bend the fairings sometimes almost in half and the clear doesn’t crack or shatter. every bike in my website gallery is hok or rm diamont for color and spi for base clear. been using those systems for 10 years now.
nail polish doesn’t work. I’m sure you guys can figure that out. that stuff is a lacquer of some type and has no chemical resistance at all. gas will eventually penetrate it. the right thing to use is epoxy and it can’t be any type. its called novalac epoxy. its what is used to line fuel tanks and tanks that hold other really nasty chemicals for chrome plating, sulfuric acid, $hit like that. it is usually only available in large sizes. much larger than you would need for just 1 gas tank hole. there is a company out there that repackages it in a one use packet. the name they gave it was lip seal. you used to be able to get them from http://www.innate.com. not sure if he has them anymore or not.
standox from what i understand is the same as spies. from guys i know that use it, its pretty nice stuff. coverage is supposed to be fantastic, great color matches and metallic control. spies is a 2 price system. one set price for metallics and one set price for solids no matter what the formula. when paint is set up that way its more expensive for certain colors but cheaper for others. i am really surprised with you being a mobile guy that you are using waterborne. you really have no control over the environment so i would think that would make it difficult to use. if you like it though and you have a system that works for you rock on!!
i have not used both. i currently have diamont in my shop. you can’t really ask me as i am not in the same business as you. for what i do i need a solvent base. the waterborne stuff just doesn’t work for me. for regular collision/bodyshop work….well thats a long a worn out debate. many guys love it many don’t. as for coverage i would take a guess and say that the waterborne onyx probably covers slightly better. thats just a guess though. jimmo on here used to use diamond and switched to onyx. maybe he will chime in. all in all though the cost difference in the end will be minimal. its not like your comparing onyx prices to economy limco or something like that. premium solvent is going to be within the same range as premium water i think no matter what company you look at. the guys that use it every day might have some other advice for you though.
Ok Looked that code up in my smartrack software. Its 2 step so this is for the color. Diamont 16oz 84.86 onyx 95.74. So really only about 10% like i said.
yes however thats not really the cost difference in the end. its very difficult to compare in that way. you need to compare formula to formula as ready to spray then take into account coverage difference.
i just cant imagine diamont being that much cheaper overall than onyx. maybe a little but overall i bet its only like 10%. diamont aint exactly cheap stuff. i have it in my shop and cost is right up there with the best of them.