james caruso
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man every year we get pics of that poor truck loaded up to the cab with wood and ridin on the axle. takes a :deadhorse and just keeps goin i guess.
i have been using rm for years. its a great base but its not cheap either. have never used deltron.
i have one with a 1.0, another with a 1.2. both are great guns. you cant go wrong. i just picked up the 1.2 not long ago. if i had the option of the 1.4 i would have taken it in that size.
nice job on the woodwork.
gelcoat is really thick. its like spraying a really thick polyester primer which is close to the same thing. you can reduce the gelcoat down with acetone. the gelcoat if not being sprayed into a mold will need wax in it to cure properly otherwise the outer skin will be gummy and it iwll need to be removed before you sand and buff it. gelcoat does not dry glossy, its dull and lumpy. its just a thick plastic shell that needs to be blocked and buffed out when done so be sure to apply alot of it so you dont burn through.
dag, you have no supplier for fiberglass repair supplies? no marina or nowhere to buy stuff for boats or boating? they would be the ones to carry gelcoat. ben is right, there would be alot of wasted time and expense to restrip the hull bottom later. awlgrip is about the most durable paint system there is and is made for marine use and hulls. its used in on everything from small boats to ships and i believe they only recommend up to 3-5 days in the water or something like that.
There isnt a paint out there that i know of thats rated for use below the waterline, even awlgrip. It will eventually start to blister
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One thing i will note is that spi clears are quick. They have come out with very slow activators for most of their clears to help with this. Also the 2.1 voc clears are much slower than their higher voc counterparts so there are slower options for each clear. With spi you just cant expect their slow to be the same as another companies slow. Their slow would possibly be equal to normal or fast. For anyone ordering keep that in mind. I know ryan uses superior 250. 250 with medium would be equal to 2.1 euro with slow or maybe very slow.
he obviously leaves the boat in the water full time so dont paint below the waterline. just from the red up. below the waterline should be gelcoat.
i have tried the universal clear. though it was pretty nice stuff. buffed fairly easy. not a rock hard clear either. used the energy pro as well. i like that too but as stated it is fast. i cant really compare one to the other though because it was too long between using both.
bob, i have been using spi for about 10 years. i have pretty much used most of their products and love most of them. if you have been on my website, every single thing there is spi with either hok or diamont for color. i personally love the epoxy. as said it is slow but most epoxies are. the thing to remember with epoxies is that they are meant to make a waterproof barrier and inhibit corrosion which the spi stuff does fantastic. it does not build. it may however not be the most user friendly but it does its job better than most do. i use it as sealer all the time and every job i do it is put down first then filler over. you really just have to get used to it a bit. in the shop i personally use the universal for most stuff and euro clear here and there. the 2k urethane primer/sealer is basically a copy of hok koseal. thats pretty good stuff. i dont like the regular build primer but i do like the high build primer. it sprays smoother for some reason. intercoat clear is awesome. as with any paint company not every single product they have is absolutely awesome. some i dont like but 90% i do and for what you get for the $ is great.
bob, thats what is nice about having something on the floor and walls. i have mine all painted as well and the floor goes from bright white to grey in a matter of a week. its nice to be able to just rip everything out and the booth looks like brand new again. no powerwashing anymore, scrubbing or anyhting else. rip it out, change the filter, put new stuff down and your back in business with a brand new white booth. the added benefit of the stuff catching dust is just a plus. i do agree most of the dust and dirt comes from the painter or the car though. even though most doesnt end up in the paint you should see the stuff that gets stuck to my walls after just a week or two. its nuts.
No real need to follow it up with 800. Scratches all disappear when you apply the clear. If you feel the need you can do a quick buzz over with 600 on a da if you want but you donti have to. No timeframe, you can do it whenever.
i use white booth floor paper. on the walls i use 3m’s dirt trap material which is great stuff and you are also supposed to use it on the floor. one of these days i will try ryan’s carpet idea.