gunner
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Glad your happy with the gun Ben! Are you using that shiny SW primer. I have mucked around with it a bit on a few restorations, and liked how you could see the straightness of the body work in the shine. It was thin though, however I sprayed it over blocked out spray filler so build wasent supper important. I liked the shiny characteristic of it though.
I could be wrong, but I can’t see RM recommending to put adhesion promoter on to primer. Usually adhesion promoter is for raw plastic only. But I have never really used RM so I probabaly shouldn’t say. Glad it works for you!
Standox Standoblue has two varients. A standard, and a yellower variant. However when I typed in the code it came up as a Standox most wanted car part list. Axalta is looking for metal cut outs, to make new varients.
I just figered in a system like the BASF. We’re the toners and pigments are the same for both the water and solvent. That the matches would be simalar from water to solvent. But the binders and additives must effect the colors some.
I wonder why the water formulas seem to match better. Is it the way the pigment saturates into the water vs the solvent. Or are the formulas diferent from water to solvent. For example if you were to mix the same formula in water and solvent would the formula be the same from water to solvent? Other than the binders.
I’m curios to. Haven’t herd a whole lot. Since both water and solvent can be made by the same toners. I’m curios to what shops are using more. The water or the solvent.
Yes 10% more color blend than basecoat. No need to adjust your air pressure with this technique, but pretty far back with the gun, blending mainly towards your color opposite from blending solvent. Very important to keep everything wet. So heavy overlap, far gun distance and blending mainly towards the color not towards the blend like solvent.
My silvers are blending nice! I do reduce down my mix 60% color blend to 40% base coat. For the blend. I only do this on light metalics and that being said I need a fair bit of room. I spray one coat of base on my refinish panel, then spray my wet bed, then blend out my 60% 40% mix using a very heavy overlap. Then I finish with my half coat on the refinish panel, blending it into the 60% 40% mix. Very important to keep this all wet, no dry spray. This is what works for me! Good luck!
Spies voc clears?
If you can’t get the camera, I still think the chip deck would be of some help to you. VW you are spraying with the same gun and pressures as I am. I do agree some of the chips don’t match, but I found it to be way higher than 50%. I use standox standoblue. But I don’t think that should matter. How are the spies low Vic clears?
VW What gun and air pressure do you use? I have herd other people say that the cards don’t match! And I can say that other than the odd one. Mine seem to match good! I still prefer the camera, since it has access to more varients
I am in western Canada as well! The camera is the new AQUIRE plus EFX. It measures flake size as well as color. It might be closer to 8000$ not sure but totally worth it in my opinion. Once you learn a few tricks about it. There is a older camera that is cheaper but won’t mesure metalic flake size. Good luck keep us posted!
Hello rousejob! I use the fan deck for standox standoblue by Axalta. It is pretty good however dosent have a spray out for all the variants. You would be beter off to talk to your jobber and work out a deal for the new camera. The camera has access to all the variants. It is about double the cost of the spray outs but totally worth it. Mabeye your jobber will cover some of the cost.
Well said! Ben and Jayson couldn’t of said it any diferent. I am glad Chrysler has changed there primer. Some of those trucks were terrible for feathering. I usually used spray filler since the body men didint like to fill over the primer.
This is a big No No!! IMO. Guaranteed to contour map in the climate I live in.