gunner
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5LEater. Let us no how you like it compared to the other lines you have used. How did you make out with the standoblue? I have been spraying Standox water for a long time and really like it. Just seems like all I hear on line is how people think it’s garbage. I would like to hear some positive feedback on it for a change.
The way Jim c did it is the best. Check out Alsa corps. Web page they have got lots of neat stuff.
Good call sage, but the reason I say that the single stage is more durable is because when matt clear gets spider web scratching in it it shows up as white swirls. Where as single stage won’t do that. Most of the factory pack Ralleye blacks are supper tuff paints. Iron makes one that’s super durable. The Standox one is awsome too.
I agree with Jayson for satin black single stage has a way better look to it than base clear no mater how good the painter IMO . It is also more durable and holds out better.
I have had great luck with single stage enamels on engine blocks and pieces. But have also herd people having luck with solvent base clear. I got a feeling water wouldn’t work
Not A Standox realated problem here.
I am not saying there is a huge advantage with the Axalta line of waterborne, but it surely holds its own. My favorite thing about it is the back to back, once you get used to this you will not want to dry off coats. I use Standox not only for there basecoat but for there primers and clearcoats as well. As far as the delams go, We all know thats the painters fault not the paints fault, They will all delam if not used right. Around here there is a huge Sikkens shop that had a big bumper delam problem, but I aint blaming sikkens. I can honestly say I like the direction Axalta went with there waterborne there technology is totally diferent than any other water and if they can keep improving on it all the better.
Hi Jayson, I dont beilieve that there actualy is a recoat time from base to clear assuming the basecoat is free from contamination. Most basecoats that have a window on them from basecoat to clearcoat are just for playing it safe from contamination. I cant see a bake cycle hurting the cross link of the basecoat to the clearcoat, and I have never seen clearcoat peel from standohde or standoblue basecoat. Trust me when I tell you that after a 15 miniute bake cycle the basecoat is dry and free of water.(Mabeye on a real humid day with a slow controler I have baked longer but day in day out a 15 miniute bake dryes Axalta basecoat beter and more consistint than blowers. The bake cycle even seems to make the basecoat harder and tack better IMO. P.S. I bake at 140
I spray standoblue 1.5 coats and then prefer a 10 or 15 miniute bake cycle, I feel the bake cycle is a key in any water borne system it simply makes sure all the water is out. I have been spraying it for over 7 years de nibing is hard but can be done. Your best bet is to avoid getting big junk in the basecoat which isint a problem to me at all, I cant remember the last time I had to de nib basecoat. I would bet that there isint many painters out there that would chose 3.5 low voc solvent over waterborne it just isint as good of a product, Axata has a great water product and there are a lot of painters out ther who relise this and are taking advantage of it.
This is interesting I would definitialy buy these. My experience has showed me that plastic tends to lighten the color up. some colors more than others.
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Nft5 which 1k are you using? Is it a waterborne? I don’t believe the rattle can primer is warantied under DuPont. I know Standox dosent warranty rattle can 1k however there is some waterborne 1ks that are warranty approved.
I am always suprised to here all the negetivty on the Dupont or Axalta line of waterborne. To me it is the fastest and freindlyest waterborne out there. The diference is in the learning curve and some people get frustraded early and just dont give it a honest chance. I have herd it is more expensive but productivity is also worth something. At least try some Cromax so you know what it is like. It is totally diferent than the multicoat systems. Good luck
I would not recomend a rattle can hardner for the simple reason that Sikkens wont waranty directly spraying basecoat over 1k primer. I dont even know why the paint companies sell a 1k, I dont believe any of them waranty it But I could be wrong. I would recomend a U.V. cured spot primer. Good luck.
Nice looking front end. The color also looks diferent, did you change it?