gunner
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Most of these new primed bumpers the sealer will stick or bite in to, the problem is you dont know witch ones do and dont. For that reason I use 400 and red scotch brite, seal and paint. I find that the GM stuff is all diferent primers from one bumper to the next.
Not sure if Cromax is Axaltas best product, I would say that Standox or Spies has a better line, but anyways are you happy with the paint and just not making money with it. Or not happy with the paint and not making money. I use Standox Standoblue (which is the same) and love the paint and the speed of the product.
From a custumers stand point I would not want a low buck paint on my car, so why would I use it on someone elses. You get what ya pay for. espcially in the color department. Make your proffit elseweres. Thats the way I see it, but good luck with your choice and HAPPY TINTING!!!! 😛
What kind of paint system are you using? I dont know of any paint codes that have to be sprayed like this in Standox Standoblue. There is a option for it but usually a pretty good match can be achieved with the mix as a 2 stage containing zoorilic pearls and transparent tonners.
I do not like sealer, I only use it on bumpers but that is just me. Jayson when you spray sealer on a complete do you not get sealer spray in the jambs, deep into the foam tape that the base does not cover? I still feel I get a cleaner tighter job without sealer, but that could be just because I dont use sealer as much as some of you guys.
I understand that evercoat (slick sand) says that it can be directly topcoated over, but however me being in a Standox waranty aproved shop, My waranty would be void in doing this, since it is not a recomended substrate. I am surprised that this is a common practice and you guys are having good success with it. I use Slick sand and Feather fill on all my restos but always spray a 2k primer over it for finish sanding.
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