gunner

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Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 131 total)
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  • November 9, 2013 at 4:01 am #45351

    I here ya Ben, there was a bad run on truck bumpers for a while there. The chrome now compared to the old days is a real joke.

    November 8, 2013 at 6:20 am #45332

    Its good to see paint companies working to make good products even better. I know it must not be cheap to introduce new systems, however they also don’t want to fall behind in technology or product performance.

    November 6, 2013 at 4:29 am #45319

    Whatever it is it looks like it is coming from underneath(bleed through) and I dont think you will be able to seal it of with a wax or polymer. To me it is a $trip and repaint $$$$$$$$$$$$ :sick:

    November 4, 2013 at 1:19 am #45271

    Iggy, Standoblue and Cromax pro are the same product

    November 3, 2013 at 3:04 am #45212

    Hey p8ntstick I reconise your name from Autobody online. Welcome

    October 23, 2013 at 5:17 am #45060

    Most of these new primed bumpers the sealer will stick or bite in to, the problem is you dont know witch ones do and dont. For that reason I use 400 and red scotch brite, seal and paint. I find that the GM stuff is all diferent primers from one bumper to the next.

    October 23, 2013 at 5:03 am #45059

    “some shops make it work decently” Not a true statement I wouldent use it if it was just decennt, There is lots of painters doing well with the Axalta line. Does it have some drawbacks? yes Does it have some advantages? definitially.

    October 18, 2013 at 5:30 am #44992

    Not sure if Cromax is Axaltas best product, I would say that Standox or Spies has a better line, but anyways are you happy with the paint and just not making money with it. Or not happy with the paint and not making money. I use Standox Standoblue (which is the same) and love the paint and the speed of the product.

    October 11, 2013 at 5:32 am #44892

    What paint system do you use now? Cromax pro?

    October 11, 2013 at 5:29 am #44891

    From a custumers stand point I would not want a low buck paint on my car, so why would I use it on someone elses. You get what ya pay for. espcially in the color department. Make your proffit elseweres. Thats the way I see it, but good luck with your choice and HAPPY TINTING!!!! 😛

    October 10, 2013 at 5:57 am #44859

    Any Enamal paint will bennifit lots with the adition of a hardner, Way better gloss and chemicial resistance. I would not even consider painting a car without a catalyzed paint. Wear a mask and harden it. It is only one paint job it aint going to kill ya.

    October 9, 2013 at 5:28 am #44848

    4 stage? whats the process for that? :wak

    October 4, 2013 at 4:45 am #44781

    What kind of paint system are you using? I dont know of any paint codes that have to be sprayed like this in Standox Standoblue. There is a option for it but usually a pretty good match can be achieved with the mix as a 2 stage containing zoorilic pearls and transparent tonners.

    October 4, 2013 at 4:39 am #44780

    I do not like sealer, I only use it on bumpers but that is just me. Jayson when you spray sealer on a complete do you not get sealer spray in the jambs, deep into the foam tape that the base does not cover? I still feel I get a cleaner tighter job without sealer, but that could be just because I dont use sealer as much as some of you guys.

    October 1, 2013 at 5:04 am #44733

    I understand that evercoat (slick sand) says that it can be directly topcoated over, but however me being in a Standox waranty aproved shop, My waranty would be void in doing this, since it is not a recomended substrate. I am surprised that this is a common practice and you guys are having good success with it. I use Slick sand and Feather fill on all my restos but always spray a 2k primer over it for finish sanding.

Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 131 total)