gunner
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Some of the new low voc high solid clearcoats spray better with a smaller tip but I wouldent go any lower than a 1.2
The adhesion problems I am talking about are coming from all the paint companies, Are shop has been lucky and only seen a handfull, I use standoblue. If you have a stone chip on your bumper you best not get to close with the presure washer, and thats any water borne paint IMO
Mabeye worth a try, but I would make sure that they at least have variants rather than just one standard for each color, good luck.
I hope you arnt expecting much for color match, the company is to small to provide the proper r+d it takes to develop good variants. The big companies cant even get them right.
This could be a game changer for Basf, I kida seen it coming to, It will be interesting to see if any of the other big names follow. Even though everybody raves about how much they like waterborne I bet with a good low voc solvent system there would be alot of people change back, I have been using waterborne for about 7 years now and can clearly see a adhesion problem that has been kept quiet from the big paint names. I cant wait to here some feedback about this product. Basf really had to do something there hybrid system was to slow for production IMO.
I use this clearcoat for jambs only, it is what it is. I still dont trust these speed clears for much. I dont think it is as fast as PPG or Sherwins speed clear. but still nice to have around.
I was leary about this at first but have since had success painting chrome bumpers, 80grit then 120 then 220 then etch seal and paint. The nice thing is that when you get a stone chip it will not rust. I still will not waranty this process though.
This is a good question, I to have always urethane primed over my spray filler. But I know people are sealing it and then shooting there base and clear. I have seen this process lots on (T.V.) restoration shows . To me I feel you get better flow and gloss retention if you skip the sealing process all together. I guess if you were going to cut and polish the job then it wouldent matter, but for off the gun aperance I wouldent do it.
I like my sata rp. my buddy has a old pri and I think it would be good for your thinner sherwin primer, but I dont like it fo the thicker primers. you really got to pound it IMO
The way you have described your techniques with sanding re clearing and polishing, this should give a much better than factory or oem finish you are describing. Mabeye it is the lights at the car shows or a candy or special effect pigement you have seen in the past to produce the depth . The high solid clears are the best but you can only achieve so much depth with a opaque basecoat. Also curves and contours on a car can help reflect the light to help with a deeper look than just a flat test pannel. Good luck
$15000
Standox has had this product available in standohyd waterborne for a long long time, in fact I think they were the first with it, it is priced pretty much the same as dupont and is just reduced with water. They probabaly have it available in there second generation standoblue as well but it will be exactly the same as the cromax pro product.
The 1.5 coats on the Cromax is awsome hey! Are you blowing or baking? I prefer a short bake on the base, works awsome. Autowave is nice paint, but nothing beats the 1.5 coats back to back IMO. I just cant go back to spraying and flashing.
I have been spraying Standox water for a long time, and can say that if you take the time to learn the product you will love it. When you know how to use it you cant beat it. Its the painters that havent figured it out that give it a bad name. I am not scared to admit it took me a while to really aperiatate it for what it is. Its got its drawbacks but it realy has more pros than cons IMO
Try the watter, who knows mabeye you will like it. Looks like a nice color, is it a candy or a pearl overlay?