gunner
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I would strip it. :unsure:
Charge R+I and strip or a new bumper. Dont worry there making enough money off of you.
I spray Standox Standoblue, and see that the blue candy comes up as a single base coat. I have sprayed the ford red candy in a single base coat and was realy pleased with the match. They use the transparent tonners to somehow coat the pearls and it fools the eye pretty good. As these cars with the tinted clears get older they are going to be harder to match since the tinted clear will likely fade.
I am surprised to see you guys waxing fresh paint, I usually tell people to wait 3 months to avoid traping solvents. have you had any isues?
Nft5 had a good point a scotchbrite pad will not actually sand or flaten, it will only scratch the only place I could see one being used on primer is in very hard to reach spot like a foglite hole in a bumper that would in my case probabaly be sealed anywase. NO DOUBT IN MY MIND IF YOU TOOK A RED SCOTCHBRITE PAD AND DID A STRAIGHT LINE SAND SCRATCH DOWN THE MIDLE OF A SILVER DOLAR METALIC DOOR YOU WILL HAVE SAND SCRATCHES SHOWING. I think it all depends on how the pad is yoused and were it is used.
It all depends on how you use the pad presure etc. also some primers are softer than others for example Standox pf primer is recomended to be sanded at a higher grit than standox hs system filler. Also keep in mind that the Axalta line of waterborne paints eg. Standox and spies are thicker and can actually take a heavier scratch than solvent.I myself will not use a red scotch pad on primer.
Did you get some Platnium clearcoat? I have herd great things about it, but have never got my hands on any to spray, unfortanatly it is no longer available in my area.
Like I say this is a very rare problem at my shop 3 or 4 in 7 years I harden and bake dry all of my basecoat,
Standox standoblue, but I have herd of it at other shops both sickens and sherwin. The funny thing is that it usually dosent do this. and I have only herd of it on plastic bumpers. I must say that the standoblue is a really nice paint.
I feel that this is also a problem that has been kept kinda quiet :whistle: Waterborne has been used in my area for about 7 years and its out there I call it “creep” The water creeps into a stonechip and peels the paint away from the sealer. For some reason this dosent hapen very often, and I have only seen it at my shop 3 or 4 times in 7 years. There is no way I would leave un cleared waterborne to the elements hardened or not it does not have a very good mechanicial or chemicial hold out neither does solvent basecoat for that matter.
I love the way a properly done black single stage job looks :dnc , They can look good cleared over to as well. I know with Standox ther blackest black is in a single stage but they also have a basecoat (factory black) called “deep black” I have used it and it is a sweet color, really deep and no yellow brown to it more of a deep dark blue black very dark and briliant :dnc
ATT. SMOOTH I believe when this color is sprayed as a 3 stage it is a candy coat rather than a pearl overlay. So the top coat (green candy) is just as or more important than the silver base coat. But I believe most companies have a zoorilic formula that allows it to be sprayed as a 2 stage. :sick:
X3 We had our old batery re built at the batery store for half the price of a new one, now we have two.
This is not the color I thought it was, Looked it up in Standox Standoblue and no special efect pigments are needed. How did you make out?
I agree Murray, I use the Standox standoblue (same product I think :whistle: ) And cant say enough about it. before that I used the old standox standohyde it was decent but the second generation standoblue is much better.