Pat smith
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I was going to ask about that. Glad you said something. Do you have to act fast to apply the last coat of clear in any specific amount time or just do your nominal thing? Also, when you say reduce it down, how much are we talking about? If I am mixing it to specs at 4-1-1… what would you make the last reduced mix ratio at?
Thanks for helping me out.
yeah I am interested also. I have a nice shop at home and a perfect spot next to it that has a concrete pad poured already that this would fit perfectly. Hmmm :whistle:
yeah, that looks really good. Looks like a factory paint job.
[b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]you always want to take as much filler off as you can. when all done there will be areas you see metal, different layers of filler, etc. its fine if you break through the filler as long as the part is straight/flat. when doing bodywork, even with a hard block you do need to take into account the different hardnesses of the substrait. if you break through you need to watch that you dont go too far because you will create a low spot where the filler is and high where the metal is. this also goes for different layers of filler. if you spread your first coat of filler, sand, then your second coat and goto sand you need to rememeber that the second coat is softer than the first and will sand away easier than the first. this is assuming your getting on the filler right away and not letting it cure till its rock hard. once you get the panel as straight as possible, put a few coats of a polyester primer on it and block that out with some 150-180. its build up thick with no shrinkage and will allow you to block a single product with the same hardness throughout the panel making it pretty straight. plus it fills pinholes and slight surface defects minimizing the about of 2k primer you will need. once your bodywork is done correctly that is only one step needed to make it wave free. the second thing that will help is clearing twice. on your first round of clear put like 4 coats down, let cure for 24 hours or so, block the car down with 400grit then reclear it with another 3 coats, sand and buff. you will see a huge difference in how flat the clear is when done. you will have much less wave in the clear.as for the site, i have had this problem with every thread that has a large picture in it. thanks for looking into it!![/quote]
great info Jim. I haven’t done the cut and re-clear before. I will try everything you mentioned on the mustang I am working on.
Like I said, I am new to this and want to learn as much as possible.
Im not a shop. just a something I do at home one car at a time.
Right now i have a 65 mustang I am doing a complete restoration on and then a F-350 and a 67 Camaro complete redo ground up. I better get with it.I don’t have the name of the stuff in front of me but if you go to a boat store they sell stuff that works really good for removing water spots. They also have this stuff I use on my out drive that removes calcium and hard water spots. Makes it look like new.
that ezedger is a pretty darn nice idea. very well thought out.kind of pricey.
thanks jayon
great advice. I see people doing that on Overhauling and other shows doing high end cars. Smear filler over the whole panel and block it for a week. Let me ask you, when you smear filler over the entire panel do you sand it down super thin? What if you go through the filler, do you start over, or is it normal to have highs and lows?
thanks…
I would like to see what the camera looks like. Also, how do you keep it clean?
wow, this site is truly amazing. I ask a few question on here and people really put effort into helping out.
Thanks guys.
That foam tape looks like something you would use for weather striping. how much does it cost?
sorry Stone. I couldn’t tell. 🙂 No Hard feelings. Just don’t dump paint on my head. 😛
DoRight, you are right, the 62 Impala was my first car I’ve done 3 months ago and there are a few little ripples being its black you can see them if you look hard down the side but standing back with out trying to look for them it looks really cool. The finish is like a mirror. I take a lot of time trying to make these cars look as good as they can get. I work under 3 sodium lights that shows everything.
The 28 roadster was my second car and it was nice to begin with, so it came out very good. It was purple before. :blink:
The 69 Camaro belongs to my good long time friend and that car came out the nicest. I knew he was going to take it to the Friday night cruise and show it. There is about 300 cars that go every week. So, I was hoping that i could pick up a few restoration for some side cash.
If you are using firefox then you might need to upload the latest 3.5.5 ver to be up to date. Here is a link for you to do it.
let us know if this helps.
http://www.mozilla.com/products/download.html?product=firefox-3.5.5&os=win&lang=en-US
Thanks you Andy. I watched the video. I tried using that stuff to blend the clear but it ran really easy. I was told to use it very lightly and it looked to me that he really sprayed it on heavy. I was holding the can back pretty far too. Now I don’t like it. lol
Anyways, I understand what you mean by folding the tape over. If you spray from the back side of the tape fold the spray pattern isn’t as heavy and doesn’t cause a (hard) line. If that makes any since??? :wak
[b]RatStang wrote:[/b]
[quote]Chicks Dig Wood. B)[/quote]:rofl
Merry Christmas to all you guys too. I know I don’t know you all but I’m sure I will get to know you’ll soon. Just joined up. Cool site to learn from. Thanks.