Pat smith
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when you say kit…. what all comes with it?
Hey Ryan, why do you call the Transtar a lower brand or budget clear?
Where have you seen that the UV is lower?If it’s lower, then maybe it’s not for me.
you guys have me confused. Sounds like there is a few guys that support the brand they like to use or carry.
Well, I thought for a $130 it would be reasonable to make the whole truck look 100% better. Maybe I better look in to something else.
The cost for the good clear they had sold for $105 for a [i]gallon[/i]. That’s why I bought this stuff. $130 for 5 liters. Almost 2 gallons sprayable.
Good Job Bondo.
Interesting video.
Gave you a Karma.
Thanks for the advice. I really love painting and I want the truck to look awesome.
I have buffed it many times over the past 5 years and I’m afraid to go much more with it.
Scuffing it and clearing it isn’t really that much work.
I did ask about the ‘T’ spacer for the rubber moulding and not one of you guys answered my question. Maybe there is a different way to do it that someone can recommend?
I guess I will start a new thread and ask about it.
well, this sucks. I was planing to use that on my truck to reclear the whole thing. The small can is the base. I am going to return it to get a gallon of base to do the whole truck now.
I dont want the clear to be ‘Yelow looking’. I was told that it wasnt yellow looking. Maybe something you did to get that effect???
Hey guys, I just finished with the insurance company (AAA). Told me to go to the local body shop and get a quote. Came back at $1495.00
I am going to fix the dent myself. Since I was doing the whole right side of the bed I thought, what the heck, I might as well re-clear the whole thing to give it a fresh look.
As for the rest of the truck, there isn’t one scratch on it. It’s an 05′ that I bought new and really took care of it.I like the idea of taking back the paint I bought already and buying enough to base everything.
What do you guys think the blackest best looking paint there is?
Oh yeah, I was wondering about something… I heard that there is a ‘T’ style spacer that you can use under the rubber on the windshield and sun roof to hold the rubber up so I can get the paint and clear under it to eliminate any spray lines. What is it called?
I also want to keep the over spray out of the door jambs. Whats the best and easiest method for this? Back mask it with tape folded over?
nice job. :cheer: why does the fixed car have different wheels on it?
okay, got it. What about the rest of the post? The doors? install them and base and clear with them on?
[b]Jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote] spray the stripe color, mask off and shoot the background. spray the stripe color, [/quote]Am I reading this wrong Jim…?
Spray the stripe and disassemble the car and mask off the stripe and paint the base on the rest?
What about cutting in the jambs? Should I do this first with the solid base and hang the doors after it dries? Then paint the whole car with the front sheet metal on the stands? Is that going to be my best action?
Or should I paint everything off the car including the doors and re-assemble after painting and clearing? My only concern is mounting the doors back on the jamb. It may be hard to align up with out scuffing the door jamb where the hinges are.
Good advice. Thanks 🙂
Thanks guy. I have done the body work and primed it and blocked it and also did the guide coat to where I dont have any black spots left after sanding.
So, as long as there isnt any metal showing, Should I be good to base and clear?so, do you think it’s even necessary to use the epoxy sealer at all?
WOW! That’s really cool you won it.
enjoy it.wow, thats a very cool looking 57′. Tell him great job.