Joe

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Viewing 15 posts - 181 through 195 (of 239 total)
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  • April 3, 2009 at 5:59 pm #13800

    It wont kill you… Yet :unsure: Looking good for a painter 😛

    April 3, 2009 at 5:58 pm #13799

    Can never have to many sheets:P

    April 3, 2009 at 5:56 pm #13798

    Yeah 5 hours is nuts even on a good customers car.. In my world even with another employee we couldnt do that.. I average 7-9 cars a week.. That would be another full time guy just to detail for free?? How do you make any money doing that?

    April 2, 2009 at 9:50 pm #13760

    On some colors BASF will have a ground coat or tell you to use tinted primer to get better coverage.. For example I just finished a transparent red pearl that had I not used the ground coat would of taken 6-8 coats to cover, where as with the ground coat it only took 3.. I could prove that on a spray out card to, and in the end the color will match. Ultimately with enough coats yes you will get coverage and color match. But I am all for saving money and time and a good ground coat or tinted primer will do both..

    April 2, 2009 at 3:34 am #13740

    Couldnt of done it better myself! Nice job!!:silly: :silly:

    April 2, 2009 at 12:37 am #13735

    But thats part of the point.. You are going to waste a ton of color trying to get coverage with out a good ground coat/tinted primer. Good base isnt cheap anymore… :S

    April 1, 2009 at 10:44 pm #13731

    Usually when I pull them I heat them up and the glue comes with .. Has he tried graffiti remover? I get it in a spray can, spray it on and let it set for 30 secs and wipe it off.. Work on all kinds of hard to remove stuff.. Worth a try..

    April 1, 2009 at 9:10 pm #13727

    I dont like going wet on wet really anymore.. I think the paint looks better when you let the primer dry.. The only place I go wet on wet is on the underside of hoods, doors, etc.. I wont seal the outside of a car anymore then base and clear…I will prime, sand, then base..

    April 1, 2009 at 8:26 pm #13723

    I would 2k my repair areas,sand, and then 2k the whole car complete and re sand.. It wont save you much time but at least you wont have all that solvent to release.. Everything usually lays smoother when you dont seal as well..

    March 31, 2009 at 9:02 pm #13707

    Always picking on us VW guys!! German engineering at its finest 😉 Okay maybe not :blush:

    March 31, 2009 at 9:00 pm #13706

    Looks like you about got that fender where you need it. Its a nice feeling to save beat up parts from time to time.. Good luck with the rest of the project!

    March 31, 2009 at 8:56 pm #13705

    You can usually tell the ones that are serious right from the start.. If i feel they are wasting my time I usually ball park the numbers in the my head and give them a verbal.. If they are serious I will usually write a sheet.. Seems to work for me and save a ton of wasted time..

    March 31, 2009 at 8:55 pm #13704

    I personally wont go any more than 800 grit dry on a da. Mostly I use 1000 grit dry on an interface pad then go over the area again with a gray scuff pad and scuffing paste.. Never had a problem doing that on a blend.. I have also done the same w/ 800 depending on the color..

    March 31, 2009 at 8:52 pm #13703

    Looks good! They never are straight! Should have it knocked out in no time at this rate 🙂

    March 30, 2009 at 10:12 pm #13687

    You need to use some of the newer 3m products, they work much better than what you are currently using.. The 3000 line works pretty good. Get some 3000 extra cut, 3000 glaze, and then go to ultrafina for dark colors. It is a pricey but when used right works pretty good.. I know their is cheaper stuff on the market, but always find the 3m stuff works pretty good.

Viewing 15 posts - 181 through 195 (of 239 total)