Joe
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I would personally sand it all off and start over, even just fixing the lifting areas is a short term fix. Basecoat that has been very lightly applied will have adhesion problems w/ clear, I have seen it first hand. Sand it all off and start over,wouldnt take much at this point. Prime everything, sand with 500 dry or 400-600 wet put on 2 medium wet coats of color, reduce your last coat and blend it out. 2 coats of clear and you are done, dont use sheets like Rat said. You can buy plastic for automotive finishes for around 25 dollars a roll. I would also loosen the bumper cover and pull tail light while you are at it.. Is this your car or a customers?
I hate to say it but if you need step by step instructions you should not be tackling a job like that. Problem with misting basecoat is you get poor adhesion. I would strip all our paint off and start over, or the poor guy that owns that car will be unhappy with you when it peels in a year. It just comes down to improper application, and using the wrong products.. I would throw away your dupont base and get something better that is more beginner friendly.
First mistake is misting the paint. Apply your base coat medium wet to get coverage over the repair. Then reduce the color a bit and fade it out, but dont apply multiple mist coats then a heavy wet coat, that is what is lifting the dry base more than likely. Just need to work on your application technique and you will be fine. Solid colors blend easily, dont really need to mist it on.
I have never had one come back peeling or anything like that, but look at bumper covers after a year you can see every impression from bugs rocks etc. If its still soft that means its not dry and still has water in it yet.. Akzo regional rep said BASF is going to release a new clear to work w/ their waters, I guess they are having problems w/ the base not drying complete.. Makes sense since it stays soft for days. If you like the way solvent sprays,drys and sands you need to look at PPG or Akzo, their bases are both very similar.
I can see that you obviously know more than someone who has been in the business 20 years, do what you want, but dont get bent out of shape when people comment on what you are doing. You repaired the crack correctly from the backside,I will give you that, but the rest of the repair is not right. The repair will show at some point I would be willing to put big money on it.. You came here for guidance how many months ago, now that you have painted a few bumpers in your garage you think you are a pro. We are only trying to help, so lose the attitude or dont post!
Sure looks green here and yes I know what duraglass looks like, I have spread many many gallons of it over the years, probably when you were still in diapers 😛
Straight off the evercoat web site-
Its superior strength and adhesion is ideal for repairing SMC, [color=#bb0000]rigid[/color] plastic body panels, i.e., ground effects, spoilers, running boards, fenders, hoods, etc.From what I can see that is not a rigid cover, it will eventually crack or pop. Try to get away from using anything that is not flexible. Fusor makes a complete line for doing these repairs properly. They will expand and contract at different rates especially in that warm Florida summer sun. Just something to keep in mind..
Now all we have to do is to get you to quit using rigid filers on flexible bumper covers.. You really need to get away from what looks like dura-glass and evercoat glaze putty to me.. They make a glazing putty for bumper or fusor has a glaze that is red works good and sands easy.
Ding beat me to it, but our local Akzo Nobel branch will not sell to walk in customers, only commercial accounts, so telling someone at a car show that you used Sikkens means nothing.. I wont lie we have gotten free paint over the years, but we spend 200K+ a year. Just suck it up and pay for your products everyone else has to..
Why dont you buy it through the shop and get their discount? I dont expect anything for free or discounted even on my own jobs.. We buy anywhere from 10-35k a month in product so we get our fair share of discounted items, but seeing as you might only paint 1-2 of your own cars a year you shouldnt expect the same treatment as the shop.
We air dry our last 2 jobs of the day, and they are just as hard the next day as ones that were baked.. I really dont think it buffs bad if you get on it with in 24-48 of air drying, but we have always used wool pads and they are more aggressive. I am the only one using 250 clear out of the 4 shops in this town on Autowave, they still cant figure out how to get it to buff.. But they only want to use foam pads…
Its funny how different reps say different things, around these parts (Chicago) they are saying no way to putting it over solvent base as it will peel. We were told this numerous times at both the in house training and at their training center in Chicago. The Chicago tech rep (Mike Brown Jr. )is now our branch manager, so I can pick his brain on more of this during the week when I see him..
I think you will be in for an eye opening experience, its nothing like they teach you at school.. You would of been better ahead to have gotten in a shop and worked part time sweeping the floor.. 3,000 dollars is not bad, but when you come out only making 8 dollars an hr and the guy next you has no training and is making the same you will start to wonder why you did what you did. I wish you the best of luck, but keep your options open and just dont limit yourself to this business. If you enjoy it now you wont in 5 years, work is work, money is money. Remember this line of work is hard on your body, think about 20 years from now, bet they dont talk about that at your school.. Just trying to give another prospective. Therevare better paying, easier jobs out there.. Why stress yourself and kill your body? In the end its all for a pay check to survive, dont make it harder than it needs to be… Wish I could be 20 again, I would of never gotten in this business.. But hindsight is 20/20….
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