Joe
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They are owned by Akzo Nobel, so I am guessing its decent stuff.
In this area anywhere from $18-31 and hour book time, depending on experience etc.. Good painters are still clearing 100k in these parts, but its becoming less and less the norm.. I pay my head painter $30 plus benefits, vacation..
Use fusor 152, easy to use, dries in 5-10 minutes.
Forgot to mention it does look good!!You kinda remind me of myself about 15-16 years ago. I got heavy into those body kits when I first started out, was very picky! Was nothing to spend 40hrs on a bumper to make it right. I have come a long ways from those days.. Cant say I miss them much! You keep doing fine detailed work like that you could have a good future in this business, or keep it hobby and make a few bucks on the side!! Nice work!
The only concern I would have is it pulling away from the urethane.. Might hold for awhile, but next time I would use fusor 152 and some backing mesh.
No the stud gun slide hammer wont work.But if you get a regular slide hammer it will have hook that works perfect. You could also rig something up if you had the time.
I tried that the 3m stuff when it came out and really didnt care for it. Did not want to stick to my floor and it is super clean.. Needless to say we sent it back for a refund.
Gonna have to get you to post some pictures up.. I am curious as well.. I have heard of one shop in the area that has done this..But never looked into it much..
Must of never sprayed water?!
Yeah no doubt water. I have been painting for many years and will never go back to solvent!
I love it bondo! Most expensive 3m tape with the cheapest paper 😛 To be honest I would of done the same thing. They get what they pay for and if he is happy great! Looks good!
Happy birthday old man 🙂
Both ways, at first they didnt know what do with under hood colors.. They said no hardner and no flat clear, well it washed off or started to peel. Then it was use hardner, still the same results. So we went back to using flat clear. Tech book said nothing, and BASF didnt really know. We never made one claim with Diamont, but I think they ended up owing us 10k before it was over in replacement hoods that peeled on the inside.
We paint 8-12 cars a day and really thought it was a garbage system. With diamont we had no issues,could paint 12 cars all day long. We actually lost productivity switching. Had color match issues, drys slowly, stays soft for weeks, and really looks like crap after 6 months on bumpers and hood edges. We had none of these issues with Diamont. Switched to Sikkens autowave and those problems went away. Dont have to worry about tearing the base with a tack rage even after a 15min flash. We based the inside of a hood with onyx, as an experiment and it was still soft 2 weeks later. We switch to onyx as well as another shop about 15 miles away at the same time,we have both switched since. That was about year and half ago. Been with Sikkens for 9 months now. Good luck, but their tech book is missing a ton of info. Make sure to stir your base before adding reducer. And dont hammer on your first coat, the book is wrong on application.
I know when we used rm the window was endless for clear over solvent base. Water is 24hrs at least in the Sikkens line and only 12 hours for RM. One of the many reasons we switched from RM water back to Sikkens.