Joe
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They are only good for small little areas.. Only good if you are using them to fix a quick cut through and the car is in the booth and is ready to paint.. Other than that we dont use them..
I have used some of the Euro clear about 5-6 years ago on a few completes,seemed to work okay, didnt buff bad. I havent seen any of those cars in a few years so I cant say how well it holds up.. I would stick with PPG clear if you are using their base..
I wouldnt paint the whole truck.. Just fix and paint the panel(s) needed, and buff the rest out.. Best to leave what factory paint is still good alone.. Why paint the whole truck if it doesnt need it?!
Mocoke, I would be using a water based cleaner as your final not wax and grease remover.. I clean with wax and grease removed first, water based cleaner, then we used spray way glass cleaner as our final. Paint jobs always come out clean, no fish eyes ever!. Dont use reducers as cleaners that is not a good idea.
You could have very small particles of oil you wont see, the paper towel test is probably not really accurate. Get a new filter setup and go from there.. You can move the one you have at the end up next to the compressor and be miles ahead.. Also what are you using for cleaning products? Tack racks? Towels? These could also lead to some of these problems.
Yeah would of been cheaper and faster to farm it out.. Good old slide hammer wont get that one done 🙂 That machine might surprise us if you can get it anchored down well enough.. But I highly doubt it.
I wouldnt think line distance has anything to do with it. If it was really short yes, but not 75 feet. His filter on the end would trap any moisture. I think Ding is probably right,what are you using to filter out oil, etc? I still think if you put in a decent 3 stage your problems will go away.. I have never had any problems in my booth, but I have a dryer after the compressor, a 3 stage dryer on the booth as well as a carbon filter, and then 2 filters with regulators in the booth. Gotta be in your air lines..
Base wont always show if you have contaminates on the surface..It is much more forgiving than clear is.. I am guessing its in your lines.. I would start with getting a good 3 stage drier and go from their.. Probably wouldnt hurt to put a cheaper filter setup right off the compressor.. Also throw out your flexible hose and get a new one. Have to start somewhere..
How are holding the Jeep down? And where? If you dont hold it in the right places you will do more damage than good.. Be curious if that thing has enough power to move anything..
Shouldnt matter how you apply it as long as its the right paint.. All the ones I have done have never done that.. I spray them like clear..
Shouldnt matter how you apply it as long as its the right paint.. All the ones I have done have never done that.. I spray them like clear..
K36 was nice to sand, and looked good when it left.. But in 6 months that stuff would really shrink.. I sprayed PPG for 4 years and never did really care for it.. Better products out there..BASF Diamont is probably the best solvent system around.. Dont think you will find any thing better. Now water on the other hand, I was really disappointed in the BASF system.. Needless to say we switched…
Kevin beat me to it.. Otherwise its hard to know how many coats you need for a good match.. Sometimes it takes 2 coats sometimes 6..
You know how to do a let down panel dont you Jimmo? I would get my base close and spray a test panel out and see how many coats of candy it will take. Probably go easier than you think.
Have you done any mud work yet? I would get them to bare metal do my mud work, then go with a poly over top of that.. I think the new feather fill can be put over epoxy. Bondo would know better as he uses it.