John Maloney
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- March 21, 2013 at 12:22 am #42291
i’m in ireland so it’s a pain getting things from the uk. i’ll check out those tool places though, i know a lad in england that comes over and back to ireland so i could always get stuff delivered to him.
March 20, 2013 at 11:56 pm #42287I have to paint on the panels on a 1973 Universal 445 tractor that’s getting fully restored. Will be using Max Meyer 2k direct gloss.
Then I have to fully respray a 2004 old shape Caddy
Then I have to repair a Chrysler 300c with a dent on the rear arch
Then a dented rear door on a 2004 Vitara
Then some light rear quarter damage on 2006 Hilux
Then a full respray on shitbox camper van that’s worth around 100 quid!It’s just difficult trying to start off on your own buying equipment. I never have any money buying things for work! I need to buy some more sanding blocks, masking paper dispensers, a hammer and dolly set and finally, for now, one of these:
http://www.bennetts.com/dent-removal/power-tec-92314-2216053-418299-830557.php
[img]http://www.bennetts.com/images/www.bennetts.com/thumb/th4135532342492314_Products.jpg[/img]oh and the extractor fan i need for my shed!!
I’m only gonna take on nice small jobs so that stud welder set-up would be great.
March 20, 2013 at 11:22 pm #42282nice! how much is the t110 cap or did u buy the gun with that set up?
March 20, 2013 at 10:46 pm #42280cheers for the advice dude!
flattened the door with 1500 today and polished it so it came out ok.
[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/johnmaloney88/2013-03-20164641_zps02c603f3.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/johnmaloney88/2013-03-20162622_zps7b3aa81d.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/johnmaloney88/2013-03-20164634_zps09db7efe.jpg[/IMG]
i didn’t go crazy sanding cos the original finish is peely.March 20, 2013 at 3:54 am #42260brilliant, thanks for all the help. so do u recommend changing the clear gun to a 1.3 setup?
March 20, 2013 at 3:42 am #42255no air movement at the moment as i’ve just built the shed and am in the process of buying an extraction fan.
used a diesel heater to heat the room.i think i’ll used the 1.3 fluid tip from the base gun on the clear gun from now on and use the 1.2 on the base gun.
the room is insulated but it wouldn’t be more than 20 degrees with the heater running so i thought a fast hardener would be okwater wash tak?
March 20, 2013 at 3:37 am #42253cheers for the replies guys. i think i’ll put the 1.2 fluid tip on my base gun from now on as it works well with waterbase.
i’ll run the 1.3 setup on the clear gun with t2 cap. the t1 cap uses 9 cfm while the t2 uses around 12. and as u suggest i could put down a coat with the t1 cap and see how it lays.
March 20, 2013 at 3:28 am #42249[quote=”Ben” post=31101]That is a gun I’m not too familiar with…sort of a cross between the GTi and a Tekna.
I would think that the H1 air cap with the 1.3 would spray the single stage paint well.[/quote]
hvlp guns only seem to be recommended for waterbase basecoat here. would a hvlp gun not give a orange peel finish?
also i only have the t1 and t2thanks for the reply
March 20, 2013 at 3:23 am #42246[quote=”rikka23″ post=31098]http://m.youtube.com/jimmo4life?uid=ywKecHrSNa5bnSLc8IBrvg&desktop_uri=%2Fjimmo4life#/watch?v=8NobhJe9zrM
Ok I’ve just looked on the tds and it says for the tip 1.3 and your using a 1.2 so if you try widen the fan a quarter turn and a little high psi it’s got a t2 on so it will flow abit, if you drop the psi or make you fan smaller it will run or sag in the drying time, is the s2030 standard harner
Running it at 2 bar will be ok on a 1.3 but a 1.2 will give it the peel effect[/quote]
i’m using a fast hardener from de’beer. i know i shouldn’t mix brands but the paint shop said it will be fine.
so i need to up the pressure?March 20, 2013 at 3:18 am #42245well on the devilbiss site the needle is the same for fluid tips: 1.2, 1.3 and 1.4. i’ll try again tomorrow though swapping the needles.
i can’t find the tds for the max meyer ms single stage, it’s not listed on their site.March 20, 2013 at 3:04 am #42241here’s the other thread
http://www.refinishnetwork.com/component/kunena/7-paint-and-refinish/27180-need-aircap-help-from-devilbiss-usersoh i definitely don’t blame the gun! it’s a devilbiss so a quality tool.
i looked up the process guide for the upol clear i used, and they suggested the grip and rip technique, dust coat followed by wet coat.here’s the clear i used.
http://www.u-pol.com/product-cat/16/s2080sr-scratch-resistant-super-clear-coat-%2821%29.htmoh the gun was set-up like u suggested. and the fan. ran the gun at the recommended 2 bar.
March 20, 2013 at 2:43 am #42239[quote=”rikka23″ post=31093]Hey mate
. Good attempt for your first go, we all have to start some where. If I think back on my first go I got more paint on me then the panel :whistle:
Look on the bright side it will be easier to flat and polish back orange peel then to rub out runs the length of the door :rofl
Bit more Pratice and some more tips , and ill nail it :), just keep posting and keep us up to date on how your getting on and well help you along the way[/quote]cheers dude! would u recommend a larger tip for the gun, or could i just slow down my spray speed? it’s a bit annoying as i have spray small bit before and they turned out much better than this? i’ve even painted a rear door on a hiace in 2k direct gloss and it came out quite well compared to this. will u have a look at my other thread rikka and see if u can help me? :cheer:
March 20, 2013 at 2:30 am #42237i asked the shop was it ok to use the hardener i have with this upol product and he said it was fine. also it’s quite cold where i am so a fast hardener was recommended. so the small fluid tip can cause this too? thanks for the reply :cheer:
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