John Maloney
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- March 20, 2013 at 2:27 am #42236
on a lighter note, i’m quite happy with my first ever blend!
[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/johnmaloney88/2013-03-17122144_zps6deab704.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/johnmaloney88/2013-03-19222109_zpsd325695d.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/johnmaloney88/2013-03-19222129_zpse1b23b49.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/johnmaloney88/2013-03-19222147_zps6efda21e.jpg[/IMG]March 19, 2013 at 2:05 pm #42227[quote=”Mal” post=31079]Just give them a a light rub to flatten them out before you rebase and maybe give that area a light coat or two let dry well before going over all again.
If I’m a little unsure or just to be safe I would look through any paint in the cupboard for a similar colour to spray on first to colour the primer before using proper colour.One of the most annoying things somebody watching you work drives me :cens nuts I’ve told people to get te :cens k outa my sight before now :chair[/quote]
ya i just wished i used some black sealer now, but what can u do. you’re brain doesn’t work right with ppl staring at u! what grade would you sand it with? i have grey scotch and i have p800 discs.
i’m pretty much just out of college and just finished building the shed so no stocks of old paint or anything, this is actually my first job in the new shed, first proper job on my own! as time goes on though i’ll start building stuff up. all i want know is a proper set of sanding blocks, hammers and dollies and a stud welder/slide hammer.cheers for the help!
March 19, 2013 at 5:13 am #42215[quote=”Mal” post=31042][quote=”johnmaloney88″ post=31038]i have one and love it
here’s the door trim on a mk4 golf i done with it:
[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/johnmaloney88/IMAG0319.jpg[/IMG][/quote]
That’s some comfy looking chair you’ve got to sit on in between coats John :p
I’ve only got the Sri from back in the day only use the odd time is the pro much of an improvement?[/quote]
if i don’t take care of myself, no one will!
March 19, 2013 at 4:24 am #42212this is the one! :
[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/johnmaloney88/2013-03-17122144_zps6deab704.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/johnmaloney88/2013-03-17191658_zpsa6834f8b.jpg[/IMG]also i think there’s some sanding marks in the basecoat. a few pigtails. my sisters husband was watching me during the whole process of repairing the car so i couldn’t concentrate properly and didn’t work to the best of my ability! is there anything i can do to rectify these sanding scratches now before clear. i’ll be getting another 250ml of basecoat tomorrow.
March 18, 2013 at 2:55 pm #42180i have one and love it
here’s the door trim on a mk4 golf i done with it:
[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/johnmaloney88/IMAG0317.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/johnmaloney88/IMAG0316.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/johnmaloney88/IMAG0318.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/johnmaloney88/IMAG0319.jpg[/IMG]March 8, 2013 at 4:12 pm #41972cheers for the tech details, and bloody hell i’ve never used a gun above 30 psi! i’ll try it out though, it was a gift from a guy in germany that used to paint.
March 7, 2013 at 7:17 pm #41951they seem to be a conventional top coat gun. require big pressure, like 50psi. the msb stands for medium solid.
March 7, 2013 at 4:16 pm #41945if the sagola has the clear cap then it’s not a hvlp btw. it will be something like the rp or te20 cap on the devilbiss, runs somewhere between 25-30 psi.
March 5, 2013 at 12:33 am #41800beautiful finish! what lechler clear is that? i’m on the market for some clear.
January 30, 2013 at 4:22 am #40817[quote=”jeremyb” post=29786]A w400 isn’t terribly slow. Not an RP though…..but definitely faster than a nr2000. The lph is the one that is deathly slow with clear…even though it will lay out a nice finish.
:P[/quote]
what aircap have u on the w400? what type of clear? ms?
January 14, 2013 at 2:39 pm #40380[quote=”Manback” post=29315][quote=”JackMarshall” post=29280][quote=”rikka23″ post=29261][quote=”JackMarshall” post=29260]Yep, I use a Devilbiss Gti Pro 1.3/1.4 for base with a T1 aircap and its spot on.
Not sure if the aircaps are named different in different countries.[/quote]
If I remember rightly the t2 is for the fast flow which lays the material down with a ( original) finish lol and the t1 give a nice show room glass finish.if you use them for clear like I do, I’ve never used the t1 for color which is interesting as I use iwata w400 for color wonder how they would compare :lol1[/quote]
T2 is fast flow for gloss/clears T1 is suited to solvent basecoat. I have tried the T1 for clear and it does not work well.
T110 is the latest aircap for the standard gti for HS clears and glosses which is superb.[/quote]
I tried the T110 with DeBeer WB the other day, prefer it to the H1 cap my GTi pro came with.[/quote]
lechler and debeer are one of the few who don’t recommend the hvlp for their waterbase. they recommend the t1 cap. devilbiss have all the recommendations on their site for each paint manufacturer.
January 12, 2013 at 10:40 pm #40318thanks, where can they be bought in europe, was googling and all that came up was us sites
October 18, 2012 at 7:30 pm #38682cheer’s just bought a load of stuff today, 2 as new devilbiss gti guns, one is digital, sand papers, static masking, white sealer, black sealer, loads of shit! so i’ll put on the black sealer as andy suggested
October 18, 2012 at 2:10 pm #38676I wouldn’t worry about it too much, from this site u seem seriously knowledgeable, talented and helpful so i’m sure u’ll be fine! with ur skills i’d say u’d be snapped up in Oz.
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