Peter
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[quote=”Wydir” post=27010]Well good job but usually Etching Primer is for Bare metal applications. You should of used an Adhesion Promoter like bulldog.
hopefully it holds up for ya
keep us posted![/quote]
Thanks Wydir,
I have used this self etching prime on plastic parts many times, also these skirts were already painted so I primed over the original paint, not directly onto plastic.
the SEM gives enough flex radius, have never had anything de-laminate or come back in over 10 years. I just make sure to sand thoroughly for proper adhesion. The next step is swapping the engine but before I will wash the engine bay out thoroughly with brush and orange cleaner. Once the car is running nicely again I will refinish the whole exterior before I put the skirts on. 185k miles and the original engine is finally going, still runs strong so if any of you guys think “WANKLE” motors are unreliable come talk to me. 👿As of now the car is waiting for $$$$ of parts.
I have the injectors ready to go out and be balanced/cleaned/rebuilt
Complete competition engine/trans/diff mounts
12lb alu fly with S/S disc and pressure plate
coilover suspension
stainless braided oil lines
Full dual primary racing exhaust with all new rubber hangers
Japanese Infini IV bucket seats
MOMO steering wheel
Brilliant Black factory color (PZ) PPG DBC Deltron with the last of my DCU2055 clearGetting some OEM Turbo II side skirts primed for paint
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltGw9VBzj3A&list=UUqrR7tU7LoQm-OHhVbUWEmw&index=3&feature=plcp
Painted, I used PPG DBC and 4010 for clear.I do have another complete rear body if I need to cut and weld the quarter on
Nice work.progress on the mustang.
I like your hammers :compsmash lolI been using 3M products for over 15 years,
Red pads for solid colors and grey for metallic.
I also use a few drops of dish washing soap per gallon of water to get grease off he car.
My first time spraying metallic color onto a panel I was blending silver that I sanded with a red pad did I learn I had to use the grey pads for a finer surface where the metallic flakes did not stand up in the coarse sanding marks from the red, it does not do this in the grey..[quote=”Andy T” post=26654][quote=”Nexson” post=26648]I have followed your videos on youtube, you do some nice work, we just need you to get away from the aersol primers! :P[/quote]
Hey, I use them for 90% of my work :p
As long as you treat them right and don’t expect them to cover much (I go 320 at least) some aren’t as bad as you think. We use Kent Ultrafill, available in several colours, and I wouldn’t be without it 🙂
Nice job fella. Came out really nice![/quote]
Thanks Andy T,
I been using SEM products for about 5 years with no ill effects, love their aerosol products.[quote=”Nexson” post=26648]I have followed your videos on youtube, you do some nice work, we just need you to get away from the aersol primers! :P[/quote]
Thanks Nexson,
true, but I let it dry for 48 hours before messing with it so it works out well, have not had problems with it since I use a coat of base first to seal it up then color sand and do the complete base/clear process.Have not had any wrinkles or shrinkage issues. I love using NCP280 and NCS1990 but being California, can’t get those so easy.[quote=”smooth” post=26646]Looks good. Gotta love black…. what products are you using for your cutting and buffing??[/quote]
Thanks smooth, I am using a dynabrade 3/32nd i think DA with the 1500/3000 trizact 3M with the compounds.
After the 3000 machine DA sanding polishing it is a breeze!Thanks BUZZ,
I used a satajet RP2 Digital John Kosmoski limited edition gun to spray this 93 R1 FD3S RX7.
I asked the finish masters down the block and other people who have done this, I tested a 2 month dry headlight cover by sanding it and cutting it with a razor to test the inner coat adhesion, works just fine :cheer:
