Kim
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solvent
Ok, I think I just was not sanding back far enough in the old paint.This problem seems to be fixed now. Is it me or does the coverage suck on Base Coat paint It seems way to thin….I miss Immron! Thanks for the help People!!!
So I need to go over the 1500 spots with 600 or 800 or 1000 before reclear then correct?
Most of it is done with 1000So I want it to be kind of rough before reclearing?
I have 3 coats of clear, I could just polish now, but I would rather reclear the whole car after I repair the spots.
I am sanding the whole car and only rebaseing the bad spots–Then reclearing the whole car.
Is 1000 ok? I dont want to get into the paint.
Can I clear after I wet sand with 1500 or do I need to sand with something more aggressive? Want to make sure my clear sticks to the car!
Thats why I got alot of my orange peel–too much sun and dried too fast–Was my own fault though.
Thats what I am gonna try…Found another small spot on my fender too. And yep got some orange peel. Sand just past the spot and then fix it,prime it and Clear the whole car again was my plan.
I am in the process of wet sanding the whole car with 1500 grit. Would you reclear afterwards or just buff?
WOW!!
At work now and not sure of the paint brand–Reducer etc is crossfire.
Ok, I haven’t done this for many years and always used Imron. This paint is a Napa brand ( Base Coat/ Clear Coat ) and a high red metallic. I already started wet sanding with 1500 to get the orange peel out. However I have a spot on my roof that you can see my bodywork on and want to fix it. If I wet sand the whole car ( makes a very nice smooth finish ) fix the spots and re paint them, then re clear the whole car will that work? I was going to wet sand and then polish but have enough clear left to reclear if neccesary.