KT
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So you must of done in solvent or you would have to of done spray outs to see your color adjustments any way correct?
No color cam?
:stoned :stoned [quote=”Jayson M” post=34921]I can understand using matte clear on claddings or bumpers to match oem,but when it comes to flat/satin/semigloss black I prefer single stage with matting agent.It works much faster and more accurate for old Gm/ford/chrysler muscle car restorations.Think about 4-5 laps with base and matt clear or 2 coats with single stage,easier to keep clean and it will dry faster to be out of dust quicker…… :stoned[/quote]
My bad I thought it was a larger project other than trim or accent
I used matte select which is an additive in autoclear HS+ 2 pack. We use HS+ Through MPU .matte select can be used in other Akzo clears. Any how it dose spray very we’ll very consistent. The hummer I did I based put one coat of HS+ on short baked that .
Nib sanded that Then hit it with three coats of HS+ with matte select additive. Worked out kinda like flow coating. Clean level texture and gloss. Painted in pieces jambs and all. Roof and hood are HUGE. Pretty much sprays like normal clear. I have done wrangler hard top with same product just over raw base with great success . Great on large bumpers to . Down side is it’s not a fast process. Can’t mix any more than u need for one coat when in warmer weather. Has to be totally flashed flat uniformly before each coat. 20 ta 30 min flash before bake. Not sure how to post pics or I wouldAkzo Matt select works kick ass.
I just did a complete hummer Ferrari blue 15% gloss .TLB.
You get whole new system or just the new helmet?
If you got new systems how’s it different from original ?I do 170 to 200 ros a month and I never have any luck with colors like 301n b2 Rz jv phf pjp 503q most red metallics suck so I do them in auto base plus.
I agree it is awesome clear. I’m using MPU 2 pack. Seem to get things a little to slick most times.matching texture is one of my pet peeves. Shot Hs+ for like 8 years.