ken
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Hi guys n gals. I wanted to weigh in on this flash rust topic. Perhaps a person should veiw the problem from a point of prevention rather than cure.
Living in Iowa it does get VERY humid here . We have on occation have had this issue as well . We then turn to our old friend….the dehumidifier…sometimes we use more than 1. Buy em cheap at auctions and garage sales , estate sales etc etc.
A person could also “RIG” up some type of hanging plastic barrier and segregate the car into its own room and dehumidify that space. Hope this helps someone.
Cya.
Ken from Coachworks.perfect!! really the vette is in good shape . The poly prime is just to work out the ripples from d-a work. ty very much guys/gals .
Hello, dont worry …if you are experienced I think you will find that tri-coats are pretty easy. Especially if you are doing the whole car . We have done parts off the car ,but, you need to have good gun control and put the exact same amounts of coats down on the ground and mid coats on the peices and the car . You have less chance for error if you do on the car and paint whole side as one panel. Less chance for overlap issues at panel to panel points. Mid coats are usually VERY transparent. and clear….is clear. good luck :clappy
Hey…im looking for a vacation from iowa usa….buy me a ticket and put me up (bed to sleep in) I will come do it. Cant imagine Irish paint is that different than Iowa paint.LOL…no really I mean it. ASE master certified collision tech.
Ty you for the warm welcome.
LOL. just goes to show ya that just about every bodyman/painter has their own style and technique . At my shop we Cut and Buff all our high end jobs with one time in the spray booth , 3 coats of clear, 4 if we are REALLY going to lean on it. (Sand and buff alot) Our regular passenger car/truck jobs get 2 coats. All suggestions are truely acceptable. good luck. ken
By the time I was done the area was size of dinner plate . What do you think of just spot priming the areas with 2K and not do whole panel. I would think that to be ok. Then come back w/400wet and call it good { non-metalic job). And yes is a high end job. I have years of experience but not with the slick sand product…this is 1st use. Really I was nervous to use anything i’m not used to. You know how us body men are stuck in the processes we are used to. :] ty . Ken
Yes there is a difference .Most of it having to do with what you do after the paint job. It may be that people are telling you to put extra clear on because a show job takes what they call a “CUT and BUFF” . A cut and buff is when you sand the clear after it kicks out {hardens} with a very fine sand paper such as 1000 grit to start and ending with 2000-3000 grit. this will level any texture and smooth the surface. Following the sanding you will buff with a rubbing compond and then use polishes or glazes after the compond…….It is SUPER labor intensive and you can screw up your paint job if you are not very careful , you can catch a edge with the buffer or burn through the clear which will require a repaint. The extra clear will be sanded and buffed off in the cut and buff process. If you are going to do it yourself I would practice “ALOT” on a old car you do not care about. Hope that helps. Ken . ASE master certified Auto Body