kuki
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the paint store near me have one product which is called plastic primer.the store keeper told me it is used before paint.as you cant spray a plastic without it.so all my queries are about this particular product.
[quote=”Wydir” post=21223]Jim C told you why this was happening just read the posts :teach[/quote]
it only describing the shrinking
all that stuff you are using that has no hardener is junk and is just soaking up the solvents. [b]it will always shrink back[/b] and dull if you are using products like that.i am learning from you all.you all game me new things to remember for better future.but i am still confused that why some putty raised like bubble and some shrink inwards.can some one explain these two happenings.
[quote=”JCClark” post=20871]What kind of putty and primer?
Sounds like the putty is absorbing solvents.
Use only putties that need a hardener and
use only primers that use an activator (hardener).
Otherwise you’ll have shrinkage issues, not swelling.
Hard to say without knowing your products.[/quote]
thank you clark for your reply.
in fact i have not use either of material.
what i use and how i use is as follow.
first i used the putty which comes with hardener.then i sprayed a cheap primer which did not need hardener.then i adjust the body with a soft putty which dont need hardener. then sprayed the same cheap primer.and finally paint and immediately after that clear
now as days are passing i am noticing the some marks are bulging out but some are going inside.
i just want to know what causes these two phenomena.[quote=”Ben” post=21184]I found the company’s web site with TDS (tech sheets). [url=http://www.autorefinishes.co.kr/]click here[/url]
It states that the clear only has a 3 hour pot life. That is, once you have mixed in the hardener, your clear must be used within 3 hours to have proper performance. After that 3 hours, any unused mixed clear should be disposed of.
Which hardener did you use with the clear?[/quote]
wow.good work.
in fact when i paid Rs1700 the dealer gave me a set of two, the can shown in pic and another small can (green) from same brand ,which read Hardener on it.i wish i had not thrown the can. interestingly here we can find hardener as per our demand. i can purchase even small quantity worth Rs 100 which he pour in a small plastic can.you said that it should be consumed in 3 hours , i think its a ideal thing to do. but i have used 5 month old though it took more time to dry with a less brightness. you can experiment with some old clear on fridge or something else. but you have to add two to thre table spoon fresh hardener. its my recipe.
[quote=”alistair” post=21182]One thing I think everyone has missed – which is if those are your only problems on your first attempt at a DIY paint job then you should be pretty pleased![/quote]
with the grace of ALLAH i am pleased and satisfied.and most importantly i have learnt from the experts, on this forum.i have just recompound the car as i painted inside doors with matte color,so its fume were likely be spread over the exterior . i mildly compound the whole car..now look at the final shine
[quote=”smooth” post=21176]wow, :huh: i have never heard of such a thing. if you add a hardener to a clear it cannot be used after a half an hour, because it starts to harden.[/quote]
i think its Korean.it cost Pak Rs 1700( for $ divide it with 85) the other brand comes fro Malaysia and it costs Rs2500.
here in Pakistan painters keep very low pressure on conventional guns. they spry at a distance of half foot.the key factor of the whole procedure is to how much paint to be thinned. so they thin the paint according to pressure and distance.believe me some car i have seen were even better than original paint.[quote=”Ben” post=21171]If it is 1 month old, with hardener in it, it should be completely hardened (no longer a liquid). If it is still liquidy, there is probably something wrong. In either case, it is garbage.[/quote]
its a nexa system clear.it is still in liqud form (made in korea).i have even used 5 month old clear which i brought from my friend but i could not utilize it at that time.recently i add some hardener(two table spoon) and sprayed it over a door. though it completely dried in two days but i think it has less shine.
in your part of the world you use hplw guns which combat orange peel.but here in pakistan i know painters who use simple conventional gun,with no clear run and it require no sanding.completely smooth. i think you use very powerful hardener.[quote=”Offdagun” post=21164][quote=”Wydir” post=21163][quote=”kuki”]
so what is your experience .how much time should be given to final coat to settle down and then spray clear.
i sprayed the final coat (of color) and immediately after it i sprayed the clear.thats what i saw different people in real life and in videos.[/quote]I have never seen anyone spray Clear over basecoat with out letting it dry always give it 20-30min to let the solvents out .
I would Say without a doubt that is why it looks as it does. just as Jim says its doing (the man knows his shit) :teachNow all you need to do is scuff the clear with 600grit and respray your base color wait for 30min and spray clear out it again
it will be good practice and remember always follow the tech sheets not what you see in a video cus who knows what products or video editing there using[/quote]
Painting base over 600 with something that has already sunk back and possibly isn’t fully cured yet I wouldn’t advise…
A big factor to this whole thread as Jim said is temperature equally a big of a factor is the hardener used.. Given that it clearly hasn’t been baked I’d recommend putting it out in the sun for a few days before even touching it mate. Depending on what you want to accomplish go from there, if the sinkback bothers you then you will need to sand it all back and prime it again.
Putting more product on something that’s already quite thick and sinking back is only going to continue to do so :s
[b]Two pack is heat dried not air dried, although enough time is still needed for solvents to escape…. So out in the sun let it fully cure and go off. And buff the absolute crap out of it… Or do it again.
[/b]
Finish with finer paper and apply less product, big secret of the trade.[/quote]little knowledge is a dangerous thing.that what i have proved in my first DIY.
now one guy on a forum which i can quote was saying that you can wax your paint after compound.it is old day theory that 30 days should be given to paint to release all gases etc.so on the 2nd or third day i wax the paint after compound. now this wax was very cheap one and had a very greasy effect. it is called Kiwi auto shine.price US$1[quote=”Wydir” post=21163][quote=”kuki”]
so what is your experience .how much time should be given to final coat to settle down and then spray clear.
i sprayed the final coat (of color) and immediately after it i sprayed the clear.thats what i saw different people in real life and in videos.[/quote]Now all you need to do is scuff the clear with 600grit and respray your base color wait for 30min and spray clear out it again
[/quote]
:rofl
no no no .i am satisfied with the final outcome.even i have made severe blunders with that but my ACCORD shines more than show room cars do.[quote=”jim c” post=21159]most all guys i know personally spray the last coat of base, let it sit overnight and clear in the morning.[/quote]
so its a misconception that clear has be penetrated through paint for better adhesion.wet paint is most likely to be mixed the clear rather well dried.[quote=”smooth” post=21155]if your not using a professional paint booth and are air drying give your paint( base coat) a 20 minute flash time at least and you should be fine. i would also suggest using a sealer over your primer. my thought on this is the longer you give your material to dry will result in a better finish and no surprises later down the road ;)[/quote] :clappy thanks
[quote=”jim c” post=21152]all this is happening because there was not enough flash time allowed on the paint. its shrinking back because solvents are slowly working their way out of the paint. after the basecoat went on if more time was allowed before clear then you would see alot less of this. cheap primer is also a big contributor as that will soak up more solvents. also priming over bodyfiller with too coarse of a sanding scratch.[/quote]
so what is your experience .how much time should be given to final coat to settle down and then spray clear.
i sprayed the final coat (of color) and immediately after it i sprayed the clear.thats what i saw different people in real life and in videos.[quote=”lild” post=20978]My feeling is this, if you still see bluryness, or the panel doesn’t looks as good or better than you didn’t buff enough to get all the sand scrathes out before polishing. Or you didn’t let the panel dry enough before buffing, & the sand scrathes are comeing back thru, its real important that u learn thewindow of time for the paint u use before buffing.[/quote]
i am sorry in fact i was busy in my office work so i did not come to the forum.i read all of your expertise( thank u all) but what lild say is more likely the case with me.though i have given three days to clear to dry but i think it demanded more.I noticed that some of scratches are reappearing on clear coat surface.( some scratches appeared beneath the clear from body repair area.it means clear has pulled them out,Why? i dont know the reason.may be we dont use sealant on repaired area)
i am from pakistan i am not a professional painter rather it was my firs DIY.my other observation was like that when i applied the clear the car was so vibrant but as the clear dried, the brightness also faded away with it,not so much but 10% around.
here in Pakistan Nexa system is used so i usedn exa paint and thinner(which u called reducer ,i think)
the final shine is though not bad[quote=”MoCoke” post=21122]based on your limited resources, the paint looks pretty good from here[/quote]
thanks but i would like know if both bumpers are looking good or not.
