Malcolm Wilson
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
I remember the wife fancying one of these when they came out. Owner must like it to put that kinda coin in it I’m sure bits from diahatsu aren’t cheap.
Keep up the good work looking well now anyway. :cheersWe used to repair new cars for couple dealers that had been damaged at the docks or damaged in transit to the dealers used to do min of 2 a month hated it spent ages taping and covering them up to make sure no dust got anywhere etc
Although enjoyed laughing at all these donkeys who make a big deal about buying a new car as they don’t believe a car can be repaired as good as new and the only way to ensure is to buy new not at all realising that I’d repaired and painted the entire side or the roof as the transport driver had misjudged the gap on the decks of lorry and car spent last 100miles bouncing off upper deck lol
What Andy t has described is what I’m building although I find the air con rad idea interesting although I think it would need be matching diameter and I would prob be looking a new one possibly out of car/lorry etc I looked up what pressure they take and according to a quick googling they run about 250psi so fine for std compressor.
Although if space is an issue for a run of pipe you could make a large run of copper pipe fit into a much smaller space by coiling it around into a large spring style thing which is essentially all a condenser coil/rad is anyway.
That flexible sanding paper is a copy of the kovax I’ve been using this past few months which from what I here is both better and cheaper than the 3m variant.
http://www.eagleabrasives.com/assilex.html
The super assilex orange is fantastic for blending clear I’ve almost completely swapped to their line now inc da discs which I think last longer than 3m.
Anyone else using their stuff?
[quote=”NFT5″ post=33001]$20 an hour? :huh:
Here that would barely get you a 4th year apprentice. Even average painters are asking $30/hour and a really good one over $50.
I’ve been looking for a decent painter for ages and offering an $80K annual package including open ended productivity bonus. Haven’t had any luck finding one that actually wants to work.[/quote]
80k! Where do I sign up lol :dnc
I don’t know what kind of equipment/tools you have but my advice is take as much and as big a bit as u can there is nothing as annoying as the customer landing with too small a piece or it half destroyed :headsmack: :deadhorse so what I advise in this situation without seeing it etc is cut up the boot/trunk floor along the inner arch or where ever is easier down in around the seat base etc is your sill panel damaged take as much of that too if u can then go as far up the post as u can or even take the corner off the roof if u can get away with it lol.
This way whoever is fitting it again has all the options to cut and join where ever they decide best better to much as you can always trim it back not so easy to add on what’s not there thou :pcorn:Infra red heater that’s what I had in my mind the other day when I was thinking about power points and all I could think of when writing the post was heat gun lol I was thinking earlier if u were afraid of spark explosion that it would be very simple to have a remote switch operating outside the booth.
Nice reflection NFT5 :cheers
[quote=”Scoobycarl” post=32751]Looking good mate,im jelous lol :cheers[/quote]
Thanks I’ve been jealous of other people’s for years and finely managed to get my own :dnc
Yeah I’d thought on the socket issue but I’ve seen them in many home bru booths and the air change in most of them would prob be considerably less than a proper set up maybe. The socket I was thinking on fitting would have been the exterior type which u lift the sealed cover plug in close the sealed cover over the plug then switch it on threw the sealed cover/switch but your prob right so think I’ll leave that idea.
I had thought on chimney needing to be above roof ridge height etc as in a house chimney but over the last few months I’ve been looking at other shops/installations around the country and there appears to be no uniform way some are straight up through roof 6 inch others are 5-6ft and some are out the side wall.
My exhaust and intake would be about 7-8 metres away from each other and on separate walls around a corner this is considerably further than your standard fitment which is side by side and exhaust being 2-3ft taller so I don’t think intermixing of the two will be any worse an issue.
I see a lot of booths seem to get their intake air from with in the shop I had thought about this but thought if u had got a contaminate in the shop u would just be sucking it into the booth so I think it’s prob better to just take in relatively fresh air from outside.Another question that’s been in my head lately is booth coatings any recommendations that 3m roll or spray coatings or just repaint in when gets dirty as most people here seem to do?
Thanks for replies
Couple pics of it at min under construction :weights
[quote=”reckless” post=32746]make sure use a squirrel cage fan, they can push though counduits better than a fan[/quote]
I probably should have said this is a proper nova verta spraybooth/oven I’m installing not a home made booth which I think your referring to with fan
Thanks for the reply thou
This is interesting stuff I wonder will it ever make it to the uk or will we just get the short end of the stick as usual :compsmash
Online brochure:
https://www.basfrefinish.com/hubhtml/onyxsolvent/files/Onyx%20HD%20Low%20VOC%20Productive%20System%20-%20AD3611.pdfWelcome along :spraywelc:
Similar situation to me except I’ve started my own one man band shop so I’m the only one of everything lol. And the only other guys about who do it are either old set in their old ways or just won’t talk or share info.I’ve a gti pro-lite (uk version) for few months now and love it for clear. I’ve only got the te20 cap but will invest in a te10 cap to try or perhaps another gun with it fitted if I get it for decent cash.
Looking funky :clappy nice to get a break from the norm :cheer:
Looking good :cheers
