Lee Murray

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  • March 21, 2013 at 2:36 am #42296

    [quote=”johnmaloney88″ post=31139]where did you buy it from? thanks[/quote]

    I just got it from the local motor factors, Dingbro. They have a huge branch with a big paint dpt.
    Sure, I could have got it cheaper online but it was on the shelf and if there ever a problem they’ll sort it out direct with the manufacturer.

    March 20, 2013 at 11:46 pm #42285

    [quote=”johnmaloney88″ post=31133]nice! how much is the t110 cap or did u buy the gun with that set up?[/quote]

    £81 iirc?

    March 20, 2013 at 11:01 pm #42281

    I bought it for the “applies like glass” claims, which It can, depending of what you’re using it or and how you’re using it.

    Having said that, I can always lay flatter with it compared to the T2.
    I use A DeBeer HS for the quality jobs and I’m trying out a cheaper MS that the suppliers shift loads of in my area for the cheaper jobs.

    This was only a light cut and buff after the 110 with the HS
    [IMG]http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z61/starbar77/1AC35E52-FBEE-4DB0-A25B-4D91D9117DFA-2601-0000015133B40A89_zps6a0e9bd0.jpg[/IMG]

    Gun finish in the MS using the T110
    [IMG]http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z61/starbar77/8C3AA054-3AD4-40D7-A1B4-1D5BC9D31C0F-1046-00000099B573B989_zps6482db92.jpg[/IMG]

    March 16, 2013 at 8:13 pm #42137

    I spray the HS420 with a GTi pro and T110 air cap, doesn’t lay as flat as MS right away but then flows out fine.

    March 7, 2013 at 4:26 am #41904

    I applied 8 thin coats, I’d do less, slightly heavier coats in future.

    I used 12 litres (ready mixed, ready for use), sounds a lot, but its thinned so flash-off, overspray and deliberately over-applying certain areas really eats up the paint. The most important reason of all that paint is getting it to lay flat and thicker applications peel much easier (makes cleanup easy for you, and stripping for a new coat easy).

    Here’s the car prepped and masked, you’ll notice the glass is not masked to the edge, that’s because when you peel the tape off it takes the Plastidip with it! So the gap between the edge of your windscreen or trim and the body provides a ready made “cut”. If that makes sense? The lights are left unmasked as its easy to peel right off those too.
    [IMG]http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z61/starbar77/1679F6B8-47C2-48FB-A3C3-0C9710440C8A-679-000000651DB27A2E_zps36f5c8be.jpg[/IMG]

    Coat one
    [IMG]http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z61/starbar77/D1B5E056-EF82-46C0-A0F4-B86BF27251E0-679-0000006523E6543E_zps4bf56d73.jpg[/IMG]

    Coat two
    [IMG]http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z61/starbar77/427C26E2-B121-4C11-8043-26579922006F-679-0000006528918698_zpsda7583f5.jpg[/IMG]

    Coat three
    [IMG]http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z61/starbar77/EB2933A6-10A0-4806-98A6-B6A791E4CA84-679-000000652D124E63_zpscd9ed175.jpg[/IMG]

    And so on, it’ll build up and look rough, like 40 grit sandpaper! But don’t worry, just build up the coverage till you are happy it’s thick enough and even (bare in mind it’ll flatten out when drying)

    I used the last coat to make sure I laid a very even med-wet coat on, trying to leave it how I wanted it to finish.
    [IMG]http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z61/starbar77/90B232AC-A673-496D-9AB6-4635B8544C81-679-0000006542FED0A5_zpsd618ea7f.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z61/starbar77/2837FB7F-49FD-4B98-A775-AF860CEADD32-679-000000661DB49225_zpsfd0dcbbf.jpg[/IMG]

    Now I got a little scared, it looked too thick and uneven, like I’d overloaded a black latex base coat, but it dried and flattened/evened out just like one too!

    [IMG]http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z61/starbar77/CB1CABBB-0CBB-4F2E-9207-D898DDAA9114-679-00000066226B90E9_zps403c5dc3.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z61/starbar77/A066BD5E-D60E-4262-AE19-BBC247F6CBDA-679-00000066270FC7C1_zpsa3da1972.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z61/starbar77/54C58CDC-A053-46C2-84A0-7DBE3A690ABA-679-000000663918F6E3_zps639bd369.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z61/starbar77/F7E49AAA-4357-46F4-865B-9567CADD33E5-679-000000663D87B50D_zpsa4bad2bd.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z61/starbar77/9FB521D7-6BDF-4D40-81DB-D826B473CD72-679-000000662BD8BACF_zps7b06cd22.jpg[/IMG]
    [IMG]http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z61/starbar77/922006AC-00FE-4D3B-8D91-7C1EEE9A33F6-679-0000006632CCB260_zps75394556.jpg[/IMG]

    Here’s how the “unconventional” masking peels

    [IMG]http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z61/starbar77/8ED15D62-0C33-4CE4-9FE7-51A117B4E150-679-000000672063B537_zps4984398b.jpg[/IMG]

    Start to finish, 8 hours labour plus overnight air dry. (not hard pushed, could do 6 easy)

    Wash, dry, degrease (this was clean but tar spots & tree sap could be quickly clayed), mask, shoot, peel.

    March 6, 2013 at 1:45 pm #41884

    Did one last night, I’ll get pics up once I have the time.

    Used a 1.4 FLG but I’ll try my 1.6 next time I ended up having to do tight, quick close coats to get it on wet enough.
    I was pretty scared it would loom horrible as I was going along but it dries flat like a Latex WB

    February 22, 2013 at 4:42 am #41559

    Tried an electric gun today, omg I’m glad I didn’t shell out for one!

    Now gonna trial air guns for spraying the palstidip.

    February 21, 2013 at 12:53 am #41526

    [quote=”Andy T” post=30371]If you’re talking about painting with it, then I have a full car to do at some point in the future. It’s been hard trying to get any decent technical info on gun set up though as most use those airless sprayers.[/quote]

    There’s a good airless sprayer for around £80 from Argos.
    Given that’s so cheap and well-rated for the job I wouldn’t use an air gun, but I’ve spoken to one dude who does wheels etc with a 1.5 HVLP. Probably a bit more controllable than the cumbersome looking airless unit for the small stuff.

    Check out http://www.matt-pack.co.uk (iirc) for kits, paint etc. they do the same guns in their packs that Argos do.

    Yes, I’ve been putting some research into this and I hope to be doing a couple of cars in the coming weeks 😀

    February 19, 2013 at 1:08 am #41488

    [quote=”Andy T” post=30402]DeBeer’s water borne degreaser, 9-851 was pretty good at removing static. I couldn’t say what was in it but it smelled like a water / alcohol mix. Like glass cleaner :lol:[/quote]

    Their 900 base coat is reduced with IPA too, smells like windolene!

    January 31, 2013 at 3:37 am #40868

    Bodge artists probably make more money than me!

    I’m waiting for a VR6 donor car to be delivered so I can convert my diesel Caddy to 6 pot, I can also steal the tailgate and try to fix this mess!

    January 27, 2013 at 2:04 pm #40677

    Does nobody use the Debilbiss PRi? A friend swiped me one while his shop was clearing out (his boss takes a turn now and again), I’m still to see it but expected good things.

    January 24, 2013 at 12:39 pm #40556

    [quote=”ryan999″ post=29509]9 to 12 sq feet is what is stated on the TDS. About the size of a hood. Temps can affect this. Use it as long as it is wetting the area enough to keep the film wet for 1 minute. if the wipe is too dry to do that you need a new one

    You don’t want to basecoat directly on top of it, it needs a primer or sealer. You really don’t want to base over any etch.[/quote]

    Yeah, was meaning more for that tiny edge rub through etc, not a whole panel.

    Seen a few primer pens that state they will stick to bare metal, but hadn’t considered using them.

    January 24, 2013 at 3:50 am #40527

    [quote=”hating-painting” post=29503]They do a 4×8 sheet in this video.
    http://my.twonky.com/video?vid=304983641

    This is the first I have heard of these wipes.
    This eliminates etch primer step before priming or sealing?
    Can base be applied directly if there is a cut thru on an edge?[/quote]

    Solvent, probably, WB probably not. Still a good product and far better than mixing up and misting onto those little rub throughs.

    Wonder if they’re available in the UK? Will they be any better than aerosol though?

    January 18, 2013 at 8:40 pm #40437

    I just did a Reflex Silver Volkswagen Bora/Jetta in 900+ without blending (not by choice, customer wouldn’t pay for it) and its worked very well apart from on the leading edge of the rear arch to rear door, it’s a ways off but the front wings to front doors and bumpers to wings/rear quarters in excellent. I put it down to me perhaps not nailing the control coat in that little 2″ wide arch lip.

    That was my 2nd use of DeBeer, first was a full hit, solid colour. Repair areas covered in 2 coats then I applied a 3rd while I based up the rest of the car.

    January 18, 2013 at 8:32 pm #40436

    I was told ProSpray was ex-ICI people and that many of the catalogue numbers for ProSpray are the same or similar to ICI products?

    I’ve used the solvent base and H20, I won’t be buying either again. Solvent because I done want to use it anymore and the H20! Because the colour match on a black Citroen C2 was awful, there was no mix either it’s straight black toner! I only bought it because I was low on Envirobase toner.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 20 total)