Bob
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Thanks guys, lots of help here 🙂
Should I wish to blend, I noticed on videos a lot of painters using a sanding paste to scuff the oem clear ready for the new clear. Can I just use a scotchbrite pad and keep it dry rather than the paste?
So you don`t wet sand the primer, everything remains dry? I was a bit confused because I have seen vids where guys wet sand the primer, but isn`t primer porous?
I can use the same reducer that I use for the base/clear with the primer? It`s a medium reducer, general purpose.
Some good information thank you. Already learned a lot in the last hour.
So do most base and clears require an activator too or just reducer? I would be painting in a shop which would be around 20C/68F.
Wow, those data sheets are an enormous help.
How long can the primer remain before I shoot the base? Can I leave it a few days (time constraints as usual!). The vehicle would remain in the shop as I appreciate primer is quite porous or did I get that wrong?
My new gun has a 1.4 tip which I guess is a good average for base and clear. For primers would a 1.8 or bigger be better?
Thanks again.
Would urethane primer if that`s what it is called, I assume it would need reducing?
If my local store doesn`t have the CP440 what kind of primer should I be looking for? In the rattle can range there is a bunch of different primers, but for primers for the gun I have no idea!
Thanks for the welcome. Work tomorrow so I shall be headed to bed soon!!
Yes I`m looking forward to doing some painting but also a little apprehensive because bodywork is so visible. I love a good challenge though!
Jimmo, I came across this site as I checked out your videos on Youtube. Good job man.