Martin
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
The finishing glaze that I use from HBBody according to tds says that that for small spot repairs can be sanded finally with p1200 and directly painted over..
That is why I wrote that.. had tried never had problems…
Sage it is only on small repairs.. and always over cured and sanded with p1200 grit a finishing glaze..
HBBody – 496 SR, Mobihel FG HS Clear for overall painting or HS clear, MaxMeyer 0200/0300 clears as more expensive option..
MaxMeyer 0200 and 0300 are definitly one of the best flow clears ever.. 🙂 Super glossy and super easy to spray..
That being said my last job was done with 0300
http://www.refinishnetwork.com/community/4219-martinmk/photos/photo?albumid=355&photoid=2240Hate lightweight fillers
For a dent that is a dime size and larger ex. 5mm + I use the HBBody AluFiller.. aluminium based filler that is rigid, for bumpers/bike fenders from plastics a polyester/glass filler from HBBody..
For smaller dents/keyed parts/scratches shallower than 5mm directly using finishing glaze..
Never ever had shrinkage like in lightweight fillers..
Have also painted directly over them without primers.. promoters etc.. never had problem..
That is great but no Alsa Corp in my area.. I live in Europe, Macedonia, Skopje..
[quote=”Zarifpour” post=34898]16.8 cfm for the 5hp motor
24 cfm for the 7.5 hp motorAlso everywhere I read says that you should buy a compressor that dose double the cfm of what you tool requires.[/quote]
You are good to go with sata hvlp you are on the margins but it will work without problem..
The double cfm for tool stuff is because another person might work with the same air..
It will be enough for HVLP 4000 Sata.. it uses 15.2CFM @ 2Bar (29psi)
p.s. the specs you have written.. are they for 5hp or 7.5hp?
The air capacity is defined by the tank.. the continuous air pressure is defined by the pump..
If you know the model check the CFM specs and compare with SATA requirements.I personally have 3hp compressor with a 15 gal. tank and 11cfm.. but I don’t use sata i use iwata and devilbiss that require low cfm.. I have tested Sata4000RP and my compressor is en par with it.. that is if you only use the compressor for painting.. if anyone uses the same air for sanding etc.. you will starve for pressure..
MaxMeyer has never been 2nd Brand.. one of the best clear coat systems ever made..
Anyway MM all the way..
Regarding the tri coat respray/blend/repair
I would recommend you to follow these procedures..
That being said.. I usually turn the material knob in about 1 1/2 – 2 turns just to be on the safe side not to cause runs or excessive film build up.. I am not a very very experienced painter and like to take things slow and leave room for screw ups..
Go with MaxMayer or PPG
I know PPG has a M (motorcycle) chart that has all known and used formulas on bikes.. Take the bike to a supplier and they will do a spectrometry to find the color formulation..
I have done experiments with 5+ coats of clear.. and it is not good.. in any way shape or form.. it certainly dies back.. the film is gooey even after baking or even after sitting in the sun for days.. and the worst of all is if a substrate is black it will become overheated and will start to disintegrate..
I personally do 2 coats 1st medium wet the 2nd wet.. let it stabilize and evaporate the solvents.. sand it with 2500/3000 lightly and if necessary do a flow coat fast and low.. if not buff to perfect shine..
The film of 5 wet coats is amazingly shiny at the beginning.. but in later stages it will die back and will produce chipping 3 coats is the max i would go..
Besides i do not believe any commercial dvd stuff because they want to sell you the product and waste as much as you can so you can purchase more…
Are you doing this outside..
Can you do this in a garage?Sunlight/daylight might not be a problem if you have a garage.. You need first to properly clean the garage and then do the work.. wet the floor etc.. I use Colad Tack Rags but be sure to blow off with the gun again before painting..
Regarding the gun.. I have owned china crap before.. and they do need higher pressure to atomize correctly.. they are hogs for materials and have low transfer efficiency..
Make sure that the first coat of base goes lightly..
Extend the second coat further bu 25%, extend the third coat if necessary another 50% and apply control coat for metallics.. If you manage to get it done with 2 coats then skip the 3rd coat and apply control coat over the area for the metallicsTo apply the control coat lower your gun pressure and back up bu 2-3 inches try not to flick your wrists on the edges.. and try to spray diagonals extending outwards..
Make sure that the first coat of clear goes medium.. leave it to flash over.. try with your finger on a masking area to see if it is tacky.. if it tacks up nicely.. then apply the second coat and extend the area if you want to blend the clear..
after finishing with the second coat that extends further more in the old clear by 30%.. take out the clear from your gun..
give it few short bursts to purge out the clear.. and put the blend in the gun.. then adjust the material delivery / needle for the blend in to account for the lower viscosity of the blend in.. and apply the blend in very lightly and in controlled manner…
I personally never liked to blend clear and always cleared the whole panel.. since it gives the best possible finish..
If you do this in a garage.. try to warm up the garage.. and try to use fast hardner if it is below 15C celsius..