Martin
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Allow for longer flash times between coats, and tack rag to knock some metallics that are funky..
Same thing happened to me with HBBody 777..
You need to apply 777 in a very light coat 3/4 over the old clear and 1/4 over the blend area..
And this is immediately after the last coat..If there are rougher areas on the end of the blend transition.. you might apply again.. but not after 1 hrs.. it is too much time.. the catalysts had started working and all solvents had almost evaporated. This means that the clear is curing by its self and this process can not be interrupted by adding more solvent i.e. adding 777 or any other per se.
When you are applying the clear there is a solvent content that binds with the under coat (color) in a chemical bonding. If the solvents evaporate before you can apply the blender.. you are kaput..
Your best bet was leaving the rougher area (orange peel) and then pass it with 3000 grit and polish..
This explanation was given to me by a HBBody rep.
Too much problems.. too much time..
Get hold on your paint supplier paint chips for flat colors and see what percentage of flattening agent you need to use.. Much better finish no haloing.. no flatter/shinier spots..
You will never get it to match..
I have tried it and it bit my a$$http://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/product_parts.php?products_id=6096
I dismantled the whole gun and did not see any seals.. only guides.. if a seal can be classified #35 a packing set which is made from POM plastics with Teflon.. maybe.. I don’t know.. But I like the gun very much.. Very precisely machined, no gaps.. everything fits perfectly.. The Sagola is the same in construction idea no seals
Anyway.. I have an upcoming project and I will have the funds to get additional gun..
I like Sagola 4500 Extreme.. and also I like Sata 4000 rp..
Which one would you choose?
My project got cancelled ;(.. I had bought the materials and all, mixed the desired tinting and now.. kaput.. no project.. yes materials :S..
I might paint my rims and add 50/50 matte clear over them.. I don’t like shiny rims..
I will do a experiment to find the best possible formula and will post it here..
I usually apply 2 flow coats over because if I need to cut and buff something than I can have space to do it..
Purchase the color.. do a spray out card.. see if it matches.. if not go back to the paint shop and ask them to tint the color to match as precisely as they can.
Another thing.. what do you plan to do with the stripe? I see there is a scratch on the stripe..??
True.. the other day I almost passed out with the fumes of the clear.. my respirator got stuck and I had to continue clearing in the booth with out one.. 3 mins later whoosh almost blacked out..
http://www.refinishnetwork.com/photo-gallery/album?albumid=329
Clear coated yesterday.. got a perfect finish with my AZ3HTE2..
Straight out of my gun..
30psi, wide open controls, HBBody HS 491 clear with 5% reducer 3/4 fast + 1/4 normal hardner..
First do a spray out card, and see if the color is a true match.
To do a spray out card you need to follow all the tech recommendations, and apply clear coat over the card.
Check the color for variations.. if it is a true match, then no blending in adjacent panels is needed.
I would do full spraying and clearing because it gives the best protection.And what do you do if you get in the handle pit a run? Just curious?
Finally a run free proper job..
All I can say about the AirGunsa AZ3HTE2 is that it really performs great.. Especially with UHS and HS clears..
No runs this time.. I ditched the ugly cheapo colomix clear.. Got my self a proper HS clear from HBBody 2:1 with anti scratch.. The finish I got from my gun is true match to factory audi/vw finish.. what I need exactly for this job.
Also the other day I was doing the custom job on my uncle’s GSXR and it layed the GLASURIT 923-447 clear flawless.. The best investment of my hobby was this gun..
I had played with 3000 and 4000 rp and they are too fast.. Got to play with WS400 Pininfarina too much tax to import it.. and got the AZ3HTE on recommendation of NFT5..
Anyways.. reflecting on the clear coats..
El Cheapo clears – don’t know how to work with them.. at least for my skill set.. they always run..
Expensive clears – yeah a lot of $$ but they are superb…What is your opinion on this?
What kind of pumice stones? Normal health care / skin care stones ????
I can’t find any specific car pumice stone.. care to explain your technique?I have decided to redo the job.. It is much easier for me to kill everything for me with DA and repaint in 1hrs. I have the materials at hand so why not go use them..