Martin

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  • Martin
    September 21, 2013 at 12:02 pm #44581

    Yeah.. that is the thing I did.. on few places on the panels.. it looked a bit thin and I went for a second thinner pass and it was too much then..

    I have in total: 8 runs/sags 🙂

    So should I sand them down and buff or sand everything and re clear?

    Martin
    September 21, 2013 at 2:36 am #44565

    I got the runs on the first coat.. Maybe I hammered it..

    Martin
    September 20, 2013 at 9:34 am #44548

    That is why I went with a known brand..
    Regarding the Sata, Iwata, Devilbiss.. ahh love at first sight for me
    Painted with 4000 RP, 3000 RP.. beauty..

    I do mostly bikes as a side business and a help for my friends and acquaintances.. I used to use cheap tools since I was not in a high production but it bit my a$$ many times.

    As an analogue.. I am a programmer I do mostly large software.. The point is that the software needs to be reliable every time in the action you expect it to do.. It needs to work flawlessly.. here is where the money comes from.. Its the same with pro tools..

    And yeah after thinking like that.. I understand why paint guns are expensive..

    Martin
    September 19, 2013 at 12:20 pm #44539

    Yeah… that is my thought also.. I know that precision machining is used in producing the ultimate spray gun.. But its not like it will paint by it self.. you still have the human factor to account for..

    Sata is an old company with tradition but that does not mean that they can overprice the guns..
    And getting a mainstream middle class gun and comparing to the ultra high end.. what would the difference be? Same painter same experience, same product, 2 guns??

    The reason I did not get the Italco 4000 series gun is because I had limited budget for a gun.. I got myself a Iwata AZ3HTE2 and I love it.. I was not sure if the Italco would be a good choice but if they give me normal freight charges I would still get one just to test and see how it goes..

    Italco is a mfg that has been around 30 yrs. They moved their production in China.. but that does not mean that the quality is sh*t.. 80% of the stuff are made in China.. it depends on who controls the quality..

    Martin
    September 19, 2013 at 12:09 am #44529

    Happened to me on brand new fairings for Suzuki GSXR.. They are ABS and PP on parts that need to be flexible..
    I wiled them with lacquer thinner at the end to get the mold release out of the way..
    The ABS was not such of a problem but the PP was hell.. At the end I went with 400 grit sanded with DA and wiped with lacquer
    thinner.. and applied primer etc..

    No baking no nothing everything went well..

    Martin
    September 18, 2013 at 1:16 pm #44522

    Yep that is the one..
    But on the packaging says 3-4 bar.. so I was confused..

    Martin
    September 16, 2013 at 4:57 pm #44506

    Cheap clear.. Colomix MS 2:1 + 10% reducer..
    TDC says: nozzle 1.3 – 1.5 mm, the pressure of 3 – 4 bar.
    You can’t find it on the net..
    Although cheap it buffs to a great gloss and is easy to work with..
    I use it on helmets, headlights etc..

    I usually spray with MobiHel [ http://www.mobihel-helios.com/eng/products ] and Standox..

    Martin
    September 16, 2013 at 11:01 am #44501

    I have Iwata AZ3 HTE2 1.3
    Yesterday it layed the LS7N Silver Artctic on my Seat perfectly..
    When I cleared the base I got a bit of dry spray.. but no big deal..

    The TDC says 43-58psi in 1.3/1.4 for the clear.. so I went with 40psi.. and got over spray like hell and dry spots..
    I will sand and re-clear the whole side again..

    Martin
    September 14, 2013 at 12:04 pm #44486

    Flex agent.. only good for motocross fenders.. and thin plastics..

    Get a spray out card.. base/clear all the usual stuff..
    Then try to bend it see how far it goes..

    p.s. it goes a long way before showing any signs of stress..
    For me.. a waste of money..

    More important than the flex agent
    prime/seal properly and you will be fine..

    This is what I did to my bumpers on Seat Leon Mark I

    Martin
    September 13, 2013 at 8:25 pm #44476

    What products do you plan to use..

    at least 3 coats of clear sounds a bit too much..

    other than that you are on the right track..

    If it is a light silver metallic beware of mottling.. start with light coat of base and go from there ..

    Martin
    September 13, 2013 at 6:13 pm #44475

    That is true :agree

    Martin
    September 13, 2013 at 5:11 pm #44473

    http://www.emmamerica.com/tack-rags/

    Been using these.. I am not quite satisfied.. they sometimes leave lints behind..

    Haven’t got to use the 3M.. and if i find them they will be probably 5 euros a piece which is nuts..

    10 pack of standard is 5 euros.. 1 rag 3M is 5 euro.. see the difference..

    What about a tack rag and a super fine hi quality micro fiber on top just to be sure to get the lint free finish..

    Martin
    September 13, 2013 at 3:06 pm #44467

    Great.. Thank you very much for your advice.. I will try to get the Oracal stuff..
    As soon as I am done will post pics..

    Martin
    September 11, 2013 at 8:07 pm #44458

    Or.. as Jimmo did.. clear coat them..

    Martin
    September 10, 2013 at 11:32 pm #44453

    I will look for the upcoming project of Kawasaki street fighter..
    I decided that I will stripe the GSXR with flat black stripes and add the GSXR logo in flat black on the tank..

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