Martin

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  • Martin
    August 27, 2013 at 2:38 pm #44278

    Sending back to the compressor.. i.e. re compressing what is being sucked.. again a waste of energy to re compress it..
    The point is.. you can’t fill the tank without compressing the gas/air.. This alone takes the energy which adds to already used energy to compress it in the first place..

    Maybe it is a good idea for recycling air.. get the air cleaner out to the atmosphere..

    Martin
    August 26, 2013 at 12:07 am #44256

    Ok.. I will try and practice for this particular color..
    I will try to spray it medium.. them if any mottling occurs I will do an orientation coat..

    For the blending in the quarter panel and the front fender I might use the method Jayson M had suggested with the clear, because the paint supplier does not carry the clear base anymore.. and I have to wait around 25 days to get it…

    Anyway.. first thing first.. As soon as i get my Iwata.. I will test it on old panels with the same color.. just not tinted.. Because my color has been made to match and don’t want to waste it 🙂

    Regarding the gritty texture.. will an orientation coat produce it if I spray it on regular pressure??

    I usually spray @ 24-27psi.

    Martin
    August 25, 2013 at 10:22 pm #44253

    Great..

    So.. Since I can’t get wet bed blend coat.. is there any substitute?

    Martin
    August 25, 2013 at 9:12 pm #44251

    Jimmo:

    Use an Orientation Coat – this will fill in the scratches on the surface and give your high metallic colors a better area to land on. This will help keep your base landing better and blending easier.

    —

    Martin
    August 25, 2013 at 9:11 pm #44250

    I am using solvent base base coat.
    The code is LS7N – Seat/Audi/VW Silver metallic. DuPont – GRIS ARTICO-MET

    I was asking for basecoat blender.. Jimmo referred it as orientation coat..
    in this video..


    The first coat that he puts on..

    —
    When I painted my rear bumper, I did what you had suggested as orientation coat.. It somehow got a bit dusty finish.. so I was maybe too much off spraying..

    All in all it came out nice with the clear coat..

    Although this metallic color for me is kinda problematic.. If I put it almost wet.. it mottles and the prisms get clustered..
    So do I spray it way too wet? Should I up the pressure or reduce it, should I add a inch or two from the panel when spraying?

    Martin
    August 25, 2013 at 6:59 pm #44246

    It is what I did all day today 🙂

    Martin
    August 25, 2013 at 12:24 pm #44240

    So in other words.. I should over reduce my clear coat.. and keep the layers thin..??
    Then again.. how to avoid the inevitable.. clearcoat runs??

    Martin
    August 25, 2013 at 11:39 am #44239

    Maybe china guns are ok..
    But when I add the cost of my time/labor to get matching factory finish, cut&buff, unpredictable results etc.. I’d rather spend the same amount of money for Air Gunsa/Iwata than something that was a copy..

    If they were readily available here.. and test it feel it.. without investment for the testing.. maybe then if everything was on the positive side.. maybe then I would get one..

    The other day I demoed a PRI Devilbiss and Sata 4000 RP.. when I picked up the Sata.. ahh.. instant love.. sprays amazing.. even for a novice like me I layed perfect glass finish 🙂

    This was the turning point to go with Brands and not china.. Although Italco is a Italian Brand.. got sold to the Chinese they copied the satas..

    again.. If they are readily available and i can test them.. ok maybe I will get one..

    I am not a pro.. I am a software programmer and a photographer.. I do this for hobby.. and I was always fascinated with car refinishing..

    Martin
    August 24, 2013 at 12:15 pm #44223

    1. Anyone near is valeting cars
    2. Car wash near is using waxes in their soaps / deailing with spray on waxes/silicones
    3. Gun maintenance
    4. Gun lubrication
    5. Diesel fumes / exhausts
    6. Humidity

    I had recently lubed my gun.. and got fish eyes and craters..

    Martin
    August 23, 2013 at 7:27 pm #44213

    Just ordered one in 1.3.. 🙂

    Martin
    August 23, 2013 at 5:13 pm #44212

    First of all..

    Thank You very Much for your effort to present me with the finish that the gun lays..

    It is what I need..

    Today I will order one asap..

    Again Thank You for the insight on this gun..

    Martin
    August 22, 2013 at 9:35 pm #44196

    So.. I should stay in the positive good side with this one 🙂

    I live in Europe.. so AirGunsa parts are avaliable

    I was thinking if I didn’t hear quite good words for the AZ3MKII to get the European model of DeVilbiss FLG5, since they make ready to go repair kits…

    Martin
    August 21, 2013 at 10:43 pm #44181

    So..

    I finally made my choice.. I will get AZ3 HTE Mk II in 1.3mm
    http://www.spraygunsdirect.co.uk/product.php?tid=79&products_id=6096

    From other forums I had read that there is a problem with spare parts and repair kits.. kinda not available always..

    Since I am on a tight budget and the gun does not come with a wrench, the additional cost of $80 for a wrench is crazy.. is there another way / substitute wrench..

    Any Devilbiss/Iwata users there that can check if Devilbiss wrench is OK with the Iwatas..

    The good side is that it is a compliant gun that suits my compressor and my type of hobby work, mostly bumpers, fenders, motorbikes etc..

    Any word on the quality of the finish it lays down??

    Martin
    August 20, 2013 at 12:08 pm #44159

    Got it … No china guns.. I do plan to get a nice quality gun.. maybe Devilbiss Plus, or even Tekna..
    I had in mind finish line/starting line.. but I see many people say they are junkish also..
    I do not do this for living.. I just have huge desire to work with such stuff.. 🙂

    Martin
    August 19, 2013 at 11:24 am #44147

    Well I will go with 1 Startingline kit, and get a Finishline for clear.. 🙂

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Viewing 15 posts - 61 through 75 (of 85 total)
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