Martin
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Ok you say.. ditch the china get the starting line from Devilbiss.. How can the finish from starting line compare to high end guns?? Be honest.. I spray medium cost stuff.. mostly Mobihel and Glasurit..
Can you get factory finish from starting line?Im gonna get one and compare to my friends Sata 3000.. strip down everything and compare.. compare the finishes etc..
yeah.. that is dumb 🙂
Getting a bit hot on the discussion.. I am not here to blame or to defend companies.. but do you think that a company can get an ISO and TUV certificate if they copy/paste guns from Sata..
They had ongoing R&D for 8 years I believe..
Maybe the design is alike Sata..
Don’t judge book by its covers..
Well.. the 1.4 that I have got cleaned in thinner and ultra sound.. You won’t imagine what crap came out of it..
As far as the mini hvlp 1.0.. it has a leak on the nozzle tip where the needle contacts the nozzle to make it shut.. Tried to fix it.. can’t..Last night I had sprayed a test panel for my car to color match, cleared it with 1.4, 29psi, 3/4 fan, 1/2 material..
Got the factory finish with a el cheapo gun… So that is what I need..Regarding a CC gun I’d like to get either
http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-evolution-paint-gun.html
or
http://www.auarita.com/product_show.asp?id=186
the second one is kinda a copy of sata in performance of finish.. at least that is what their representative is saying..
As you have suggested.. it did not make orange peel.. it made Lemon Skin 🙂 Like worst finish I have ever tested.. My noname HVLP had sprayed pretty much good.. it might need a little buffing.. but all in all I kinda like the finish.. The gun is h-827 china sh*tte.. but it sprays kinda good.. I kinda dig this gun..
Well I do not do major stuff.. maybe spot repair etc.. sometimes whole bikes.. my last project GSX-R 1100 ’89 VW Black Metallic + added pearl in inter coat.. worked out pretty nice..
I do not have ANY fancy satas iwatas etc.. I have a 40euro gun. 1.4 tip MVLP.. but I sure want to move up the stairs to get myself a clear coat gun.. Mainly because of the finish they provide.. I have heard that Audi, BMW wtc paint their cars with optimas..I go from 1000 to 3000.. no problems. I have found a no name brand that makes the absolute perfect buffing discs. No swirls super glazed finish.
Regarding the cloth. I use Sonax detailing cloths, Green color, about 5 eur [7usd] a piece, and I use also super soft detailing cloth for final cleaning. Both microfiber.
What companies do not tell you is that you need to activate the microfibers..
The way you activate them is to leave them in a almost boiling water for about 30 mins.. then dry them and then use them.Do not lean on the part being polished.. even light pressure is required and more passes. Let the microfibers do the work..
I will go today to a scrap yard.. get myself a panel.. treat, fix, prime the panel.. apply solid black base coat, then do a test, half with 1.4mm standard pressure, 1.4mm max pressure, 1.0mm standard pressure, and max pressure..
I will be using 2K MS build CC.
http://www.mobihel-helios.com/eng/products/top-coatings-two-and-three-layer-coatings/36
reduced with
http://www.mobihel-helios.com/eng/products/top-coatings-two-and-three-layer-coatings/267So 4 patches.. and see which has the best finish.
I will try to post the pics here 🙂I use sia switzerland.. I use the stuff as prescribed.. than save it for minor stuff touchups etc..
Regarding tack cloths I open new every time I tack up..
Regarding using microfiber detailing cloths.. I reuse them usually Sonax, 3M or EcoLab
Wash them in machine at 90 Celsius, rinse them over and use them again.. No point if you do not reuse detailing microfiber.. It is in its nature to be reused. Microfibers grab hold of the dust then when you wash them at high temp they release it.. fibers get back in original shape and they are good as new..And many times when I was in need of lets say P3000 and did not have it.. I had used P2000/P2500 that has been almost beaten.. and got the job done..