Luis Ramos
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[quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=31355]anyline dyes fade ,the only reason UK is supposed to be more lightfast is the UV inhibitors in the product however with additional UV aditives added to any clear you can extend the life of a candy job ,if your not that experianced i would not advise UK i would go for a concentrate in binder as you intended DB 500 is a good one in my book
load your binder up to a max of 4to1 to avoid bleed into your clear i would also advise adding activator to your bases for stability when doing a three stage such as a candy ,use about 10% activator in your base after mixing ,as above additional UV screan is a wise move for any dye based job as no dye is lightfast and all will fade ,some worse than others[/quote]
I’m not really sure on your mixing tips, as I’m fairly new to this industry. You mean mixing the concentrate 4:1 with the dB500? And activator being what? Reducer?
That’s what one of my questions was going to be, if I used a better quality clear with UV protection, would it help against fading?
Did it turn pink from sun abuse? Or just the color go away? But I’ll check again and see if we can give it another try to find a match before buying the SEM, would the quality of clear help at all? I mean I live in north west ohio and only have about 3 1/2 months or so of real hot weather so it won’t be out constantly in the sun
Really? I took a piece of the bike in since it was painted by the previous owner and out of all the color chips SEM was the only one we could get a decent match with.
[quote=”strawberry” post=30957]I’ve set up a few shops here in South Florida alot of the decissons to be made do depend on where you are. Paint: What jobbers do you have near by that could supply you? What brands do they carry? What paints are exceptable were you are? What are you gonig to need now and in the future? WB or solvent, BC/CC, SS, tinted primer/sealers. Shop: Before you sign a lease or deed you have to check with county and city laws, zoning, and permitting. Don’t assume that a previous mechanic shop can be licensed for paint. What kinda power will your compressor require? If it’s gona be 3phase try and find a shop with it already in. It’s very expensive to run 3phase into your building and you are limited to compressor size if you don’t have 3phase. If there is a septic system it will need to be tested, another fee. Booth: Size, type, and style all need to fit your needs. Are you doing cars now but invisions semi trucks in your future? Do you need it heated? Is it far enough room from the roof for fire codes? How many fire sepression tanks will you need for booth size? Will your stack go straight up or out and up? Bent stacks need more nozzles for the sepression system, more cost. Sorry to ramble on but all of these questions hit me at one time or another. If I would have known some of the questions to ask I could have saved alot of time. Hope this helps you.[/quote]
Thanks that’s a lot of helpful questions, I still use solvent and so far only bc/cc, as Ohio hasn’t been restricted to WB yet, and jobbers only sell waterborne to dealer ships who have the whole system, and I will have to check the zoning and laws before I do sign any papers, and the electrical part to, as I don’t want to have a weak compressor that won’t suit my ar needs. For booth, maybe semis no, but bigger trucks yes, so I do have a mind a larger sized booth, and heated also well if I can fit it in my price, and for the stack I should have enough room for a shop that I’m looking at now, but as time goes on more info and more questions will be asked, but you’re not rambling it’s a lot of help and good info that I would need.
Ok, that’s a lot more information on the paint systems that I didn’t even think about, most of what I would need would be bc/cc, don’t really do much ss, and in my area it’s mostly PPG, and another store that I don’t really deal with offers BASF , but other than that, I don’t have any other brands around. I will talk to my usual jobber and see what he says and what he can off just to get some ideas and some prices. As for booths I’m looking at different options , and will look in my price range when I finally find a shop suitable for my needs.
[quote=”Idunnit” post=30474][quote=”MetRamos” post=30442]Hello everyone, I was looking for some help and opinions on disposable cup systems, as I’m thinking about switching over from the pots and devilbiss bag liners and the mixing cups , I think it would save me time, although idk about the money, as all systems seem to be kinda pricey . I got a sample kit of the dekups to try out later this week , but I dislike that it doesn’t have the ratios on the cup opposed to the new Devilbiss Gunner cup or the Sata RPS. Which do you guys use and like. Another question I have is do you guys use them from sealer through clear or just base?
Thanks[/quote]
Do you have a scale to weigh out your paint/clear? That way you don’t have to worry about scales on the sides of the cups.[/quote]No I don’t, I’m on my own, I wish I did, but as I don’t I have to rely on the scales on cups, I would try to use less disposable cups as I’d use the pot for clear and the disposable cups for sealer and base, but as I don’t have a weight I would still need to buy mixing cups defeating the purpose of trying to save money and less waste
[quote=”Ben” post=30446]I used to use the 3M PPS cups, they wre good. But storing paint was a little awkward, and when the outter cup got old and dirty it wasn’t fun. I am using the SATA RPS cups now. They are very user friendly. Only complaint is that the lid can be easy to screw on a little off when in a hurry and not paying attention. Clicking the vent open/ closed takes a few weeks to get in the habit of remembering…
I use them for everything…I don’t own any cups for my guns. I wash out my clear ones and reuse them for primer and occasionally jambing (with a new lid and filter).[/quote]
Yes they are easy to use, I got a trial when I got my 4000 and liked them a lot but I think they are one of the most expensive ones . But I had the same problems with clicking the tab close . Spilling come clear :rofl
I’m going to try the batter if not just send it in, but to the ones who have used Iwata which gun do you feel is fastest w, LPh400, and the supernova hrybid?
Well I basically got it for the same price as the regular one, and don’t like having the extra regular on the bottom like my other guns so that’s why I got it, so I’m gonna try the batter if not I’m gonna shoot sata and see what they say which will probably be that it isn’t covered under their 3 year warranty.
I’m not sure what happened, I don’t use a fun washer, I clean them by hand after each spray. I usually just had to pull the trigger some and move the regulator and it would turn on, but didn’t that one time and hasn’t since. The battery didn’t give any sign it was going out, I’m gonna try the batter and go from there and look into prices on iwatas, I don’t have a jobber so looking for the best price is a hassle.
Ok since I posted this, I ended up going with the 4000rp digital, not a huge speed difference between it and my copper Tekna that I still occasionally use for clear to to match the more peeled Oem finishes, but about last week, my regulator went it, it didn’t read or even turn on, what do I do? Is it just something simple as the battery or what? Maybe try to warranty it? I’ve only had it since June and sprayed maybe a car or two a week and some small parts. I’ve been thinking about trying the supernova , lph or the w400and to try and save on clear as the 4000 just hoses it. I have no complaints on it other than that, it lays clear really smooth I’ve rarely had to sand any of my jobs unless I get really noticeable nibs.
I’ve used ShopLine JC60 since I’ve been spraying, and to me it’s a nice clear, flows out nice, sands easy and buffs nice to a glass finish if needed to, but matches a lot of the factory peel so I never really have to sand and buff. I’m gonna be trying the JC620 in the next couple of days. I haven’t tried any of the higher end clears yet :unsure:
[quote=”Jayson M” post=28956]If you think about it the longer you spend sanding a cheaper filler it costs you more money in labor and sandpaper,not really cost effective.I agree that the flyweight gold is a great filler but didn’t find the fantastic very good at all,maybe I had a bad batch…[/quote]
Yeah, that’s why I’ve been switching over to the better stuff, I saved a ridiculously amount of sandpaper, time, and sore arms , ever since I’ve been trying the better fillers compared to when I was using the cheap filler. , I’m learning little by little, I’ve been on it for about 1 1/2 hands on, and been on my own since june and had like 8 months in the classroom, my high school teacher tried teaching me all he could in the little time he had, but its impossible to fit 25+ years experience in little over a year, so I’ve been having to find out a lot of things on my own. And I thank you all from this forum for the advice and tips ! :clappy
[quote=”ARTSPRAY” post=28933]i like fantastik however i have experianced differences in consistancy from batch to batch,sometimes it can be a little on the sloppy side ,one product i realy do like is Upol Flyweight ,currently i can buy it at £12.50 a tin compared to £23 for fantastic ,it is almost as smooth as fantastic but has a slightly rougher grain to it ,doesnt pin hole much at all and sands back nice and easy ,it is one of the only budget fillers i have tried that realy works well ,much much better than Upol so called easysand ,its sort of easysand but with the superior atributes of fantastic and is great middle ground filler
as i do a lot of bikes and scooters lambretta vespa i require a filler that makes my job easier and Flyweight fits the bill allround ,as a bonus it is also very reasonably priced although price is not the deciding factor for me its nice to get a good product at a good price
Paul[/quote]
o ok thanks, ill see how much it is around here and if its cheap enough to use as budget filler, i need to find a good budget filler, to do some of the filling or the lower end cars that i dont get much for to do. after using quantnum, ultra, and platinum , i went back to my $20 a can filler for job im doing now and i hate it :rofl , its so hard to sand, clogs my sand paper big time, and go through my 80 grit paper as if it was 600, so i need to find a better economy filler than that crap, i just tried the Tiger Hair fiber glass filler from evercoat to do a patch panel and it is the worst product i have ever bought, i mean im sure thats how its meant to be, but it was so hard to spread i couldnt even get it off my spreader. ill stick to the short strand stuff next time :blush: