Luis Ramos
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Ok, thanks for the different opinions guys, I will talk to my instructor tomorrow and see if he can do anything. Hopefully he can. Of not ill just wait a few months and see what I can do. But yeah, everyone sprays different, my instructor has also said that, I’m a faster painter than him, he’s a more slower heavier painter. I’ve been getting asked to work on several different cars cars so I should be able to have enough for a new toy haha but for now my Tekna’s are my top guns
[quote=”Ben” post=25341]You are absolutely right about opinions…
I also agree with Ding. The Tekna is a great gun for base. I don’t think it is the best gun for clear, but as far as finish goes, you can most definitely get a good finish with it. If I were you I would stick with that for now. Clearing a job here or there with the Tekna is perfectly fine, but not the clear gun I would choose to use daily.
I personally like the SATA 4000 RP for clear, I like it better than the 3000. Jayson likes the earlier RP better, and it is a nice gun. But for me, the 4000 is what I am most comfortable with. I wouldn’t think of the first Gen RP as old and the 4000 as the newest and greatest…rather think of them as different variations of the same gun just modified for different preferences, just like clothing…one size of pants will fit you better than another.[/quote]
Ok thanks guys, I was just seeing the different views on the gun, I won’t be getting the 4000 anytime soon believe me haha , but later maybe I will, or maybe ill stick to my Tekna’s and be a die hard Devilbiss fan :whistle: , I’ve kind of wanted to also try Iwata. But like I said I won’t be getting a new gun anytime soon, just looking for different opinions on different guns .but I get what your saying Ben, the RP on Autobody toolmart stills goes for the same price as the 4000
I understand that, every one has a preference. Personally I just like having the best out there, I know I won’t need it right now, maybe in a few months, ill put $20 bucks a week away and invest in on or the 3000. But I’m in no rush into getting one. And I agree, I’m not big on the hvlp, I like compliant. I’m just getting all my things slowly, I’m getting asked to work on peoples cars already and I’m still in school :cheer: but if all goes well ill have enough money to have a couple different guns 👿
And yeah I wasn’t considering buying from Autobody tool mart, their prices are outrageous. And the 4000 on there website is actually $645 now :wak
Ok, I ordered the silver supreme dynabrade, with the 3/16 throw. The main use will be for Sanding bondo, or putty and panels.
[quote=”BadSon23″ post=25239]The 3/16 throw is for all paint work. All it does is help not make little swirl sand scratches. Da’s with this shorter throw are said to be painters da’s. So you say you want a glass surfaces and your not gonna use a da to color sand…. I guess you better learn how to block wet sand really good then. Do you know what color sand means? Just a question. I’m not a confronting you.[/quote]
I hand wet sand clear and base imperfections, I’ve never used a DA to do so. And no I’m not really sure what the definitive color Sanding definition is. I always thought it was the final Sanding stage, before buffing and polish. I’m still learning not a pro yet haha
Ok I will look at the different options today and see which is best, I probably won’t be color Sanding with it. My main use for it will be for final Sanding such as feather edging or panel blending. Is the 3/16 throw good enough for this?
Man you guys steered me into a total different path 😆 but I will surely look at these in a moment. Any problems with longevity?
[quote=”lild” post=25198]Man don’t sweat it. Water is much easier to spray then solvent. Like ben said get the spec sheets on it, & read it.I would assume that the host would give u everything u need. Here’s a few tips, make sure u have the right psi for the gun, & see if it needs a control coat(mets. Only). Try to keeps the gun 8 inches away, move a lil fsaster than u would solvent. If foir some reason they don’t give u blowers, u can always use a hand blower, just barely squee the triger, & like ben said, stand back & blow along the side of the pannel, never @ it. If u move fast enough, it should flash in bout 5-7 mins. Without blowers, with 3-5 mins.. Make sure u use the correct color sealer it will hide faster. & if your in a heated booth while u spray crank the heat up, it will flash pretty quickly, then turn it back down before clear. Cheat code, hahahaha. Man if your teacher ghas sprayed enviro, then it will be no problem for hime to get this.[/quote]
I will, hopefully they can help us out with the blowers, I’m not gonna think to much of it, and yeah my teacher printed everything he could about the paint, and paint gun charts, also the mixing ratios, which helps so I won’t waste time reading or trying to figure it out. I guess they just hand out the supplies and send you out. No tutorial or anything. Their students all year, we get a week or so to prepare with the little info they give us. But I will try my best, and let you know the rests, unless they are horrible :whistle:
[quote=”nearl4″ post=25200]I spray Sherwin everyday, its not hard at all and I wouldn’t go back to solvent if I had a choice. Do you know what colors you will be spraying? Some of the reds and blues are extremely transparent, but other than those it normally covers well and blends fine. Make sure your gun is set correctly , put the first coat on wetter then follow with slightly drier coats, “stacking” the product until coverage is achieved. Make sure it dries before each coat, and especially before clearing or else it will wrinkle like a mother!! It will look very blotchy or “cottage cheesy,” when it first goes on, dont worry about that it will dry flat and after clearing your blend area, it will look just fine. Do you know what guns you be using?? What clear are you gonna use, the 939, the dimension 5020, or the speed hpc15? What state is this contest in, just out of curiosity? Anyway dont sweat it, have fun, and these contests dont really determine if you will be a good tech or not, you do that yourself.[/quote]
Ok thanks a lot for the tips, and no, they really don’t give us any info :blink: , I’m not sure what what they are gonna have me do, all I know I have to spot in a fender, if that, all they told was that it was Sherwin Williams AWX, and yes, I’ve experienced lifting before with solvent it sucks! And I will be using my own personal guns which are a Tekna Copper and a Tekna Prolite, as for the competition determining if I’m a good painter or not I agree, my teacher even said so, the whole competition is fixed, like I mentioned before, the same school who hosts the competition judges it, so of course they are gonna give it to there students. I’m in the state of Ohio, and in the 8th most miserable cities in the US, Toledo haha. I will greatly keep in kind all the advice you guys have offered.
I will ask my instructor to call them tomorrow and see what they can do for us. We usually don’t deal with Sherwin, we go thru a place called Painters Supply, and they carry PPG, but it doesn’t hurt to try. Even if they don’t, I’m sure I won’t be to bad at it .
Ok, I will for sure be looking at the TDS, many times to get as much info as I can. I will see how the first coat goes on and will make sure its flashed properly before the second coat. And as for the blowers my school doesn’t have them, we only spray solvent still, so its an unfair competition. But I will try my best to be in the top 3.
[quote=”buzz” post=25184]I’ve sprayed a few jobs with Martin Senour Vortex, don’t use it, but did a relatively in depth demo of it and some other manufacturers waterborne to see how they compared should i ever need or want to switch. Martin Senour and Sherwin i’m sure you know are the same product, just Martin Senour is marketed through NAPA stores. Best advice i could give you regarding spraying their base is don’t overthink it, and don’t worry about it. It isn’t too difficult. it is however a little thinner product i thought, and i’d bet you’ll find you need a bit more gun distance than you’re accustomed to with whatever solvent you spray. I thought it blended ridiculously easy, and it only took me my first panel to figure out how to adjust to spray it, and the 1st car i did was a silver Subaru. I’m sure they’ll show you all the basics before they cut you loose. You’ll be fine. Good luck to you.[/quote]
Ok, thanks, I really appreciate it. I hope they do, my teacher has been trying to find out all the info on the paint, as in TDS, mixing ratios incase they don’t, as we only get about an hour and a half or so to blend and clear a panel. He’s gonna try and get as much info before Friday. He has sprayed PPG waterborne but not Sherwin.I’m just gonna try my best. I’m sure it won’t be too bed. I know I probably have more painting experience than most of them there, all they do is paint fenders all year, we actually get to work on peoples car and get a real feel of working in the real world.
[quote=”Ben” post=25000]You definitely want to have a good filter system and should consider a carbon monoxide detector. There is a filter pack with the hood, but you need the air to be breathable quality and the 1 filter alone is not enough.
You can buy small compressors which are dedicated for breathable air, such as the ones SAS makes.[/quote]
O ok, I was just wondering, as I’m thinking about getting one, because I like the set up of the SATA systems so your main hose goes to your belt filter than a small hose for your gun instead of dragging along and worrying about two long hoses. But I will most likely get a good filtration system. I got some time, I’m still in school. I’m slowly getting all my equipment.
[quote=”smooth” post=24934]the 202 air cap on the tekna is designed to be used as a HVLP. it blows. You will get better results with the 7e7 IMO.[/quote]
O ok, I’m wondering because I think I’ve read in this forum that the 202 blends better, maybe its just there techniques, but the 7E7 has the most positive feed back out of the other 2 caps.
Ok thanks for the tips :cheer: , I know eveyone sprays differently , I just wanted some pro tips from more experienced painters than I am, unfortunately our school has been going thru an economic struggle the last few years, and can’t get the higher quality paint products, we use the PPG Shopline, I still have to tune the gun, to my liking, we don’t get to paint so often because we only get about 2 hours and 45 min a day in the shop which really sucks. Hopefully ill get to paint a couple of days. I’ll post pictures of the first truck I painted with the Tekna, and my first full clear job. I’ll for sure use your advice, and maybe try out the hvlp cap next time and see how that works out. But over all I like the gun, I’m looking to get another one but the Tekna Copper.