MoCoke

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Viewing 15 posts - 616 through 630 (of 668 total)
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  • January 8, 2010 at 6:18 pm #18499

    okay shes all done… kinda,
    [IMG]http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx325/303pusher/Image061.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx325/303pusher/Image062.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx325/303pusher/Image063.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i768.photobucket.com/albums/xx325/303pusher/Image064.jpg[/IMG]

    January 7, 2010 at 3:29 am #18485

    laminated glass breaks 98 percent of the time with me. so id just do what that guy did and throw the jack at it too. to remove it use an equalizer cut out knife, it uses standerd utility blades. but to make it easier always lube the urethane with something like soapy water or glass cleaner. i never tried it but there are heat inductor systems that claim to remove the glass clean without breaking it.

    January 7, 2010 at 3:24 am #18484

    its hard to eye ball a bent subframe but from the looks of the first photo with the left wheel pushed back i wouldnt doubt it. its also hard as hell to repair them and wouldnt recommend it. its true you can replace it with the engine in place and as ryan said typically it would be dropped with the engine in place. makes the repair so much easier and cleaner

    January 7, 2010 at 3:21 am #18483

    rust is like cancer. the only way to cure it is to remove it. so if its a small area thats pitted and a sand blaster can remove the rust in the pits then your safe to continue the metal work. however if you start to see holes and the pitting is really bad id shoot for a cutting it out and replacing it with fresh steel. make sure that you apply corrosion protection to the new patch or that will rust too. epoxy is an excellent choice to prevent rust from forming. but then again rust will reappear if you treat it only from one side. the proper way is to prevent rust from happening in the first place so always treat the inside of the panel with as much attention.

    January 6, 2010 at 11:07 pm #18474

    beautiful work on the collision job

    January 6, 2010 at 11:02 pm #18472

    not as difficult as it looks…pulling the engine out is a good idea on this one, if its pushed back, you can easily replace the front sub frame assembly which the engine mounts on. then the front rails also look pushed back or swayed. id replace them or section them based on the extent of damage but only after pulling them as close to original position as possible. replacing the sub frame will make this one repairable.

    January 6, 2010 at 6:38 pm #18462

    ahh the days of collision repair have far changed… it used to be dust included and giving away a towel to the customer to wipe the seat with was like spoiling them. lol na seriously i wish i could detail that well. but that work looks like it takes hours to complete. do u use an extractor or steam cleaner for the interiors? if so how would u rate them

    January 5, 2010 at 7:12 pm #18454

    the black one looks real sharp! real nice work

    January 3, 2010 at 8:01 pm #18410

    thats some nice work jimmo. i love how well the basecoat covered after only the first coat. something i noticed which i dont know if it was intentional or not but you never really sprayed the fender and door as a unit. you stopped at the edges. is there like a reason to that? because it makes me believe that might just prevent dust lurking inside from hitting the work or over spray from getting in between? or was that just the way u prefer to spray?

    January 3, 2010 at 3:44 am #18407

    yea sorry they’re in reverse order and thanks Doright for getting them up correctly. I didnt paint it yet but its gonna bc/cc. different design and color scheme to match a company’s existing fleet. i actually got this one to fit inside the booth today which will make my life just a little bit easier. so far the prep and masking took about 30 hours labor.

    December 31, 2009 at 2:13 am #18376

    im glad u brought this topic up. i buy them from Costco for $16 for 36 of them. theyre good quality too, but what towel brand or type do u suggest for final wipe down before paint?

    December 27, 2009 at 8:04 pm #18344

    man, u make restorations look so easy

    December 27, 2009 at 8:00 pm #18343

    i dont get it, why do u need a diagram for that? is the diagram for replacing it? because in that case just take your time and eventually ull discover each spot weld that holds it in place. vehicle construction is quite standard with a few exceptions so after a couple of jobs youll have the techniques memorized for removing and installing parts that diagrams will become comical for you. but if your looking to repair it, from the looks of the photo thats basic body work, you can use the other side as a guide to duplicate contours and lines.

    December 27, 2009 at 7:51 pm #18342

    does low pressure make the gun slower? and/or does high pressure use up more paint? the lower pressure is what shys me away from Iwata every time i consider it.

    December 26, 2009 at 1:50 am #18307

    ill def. let u guys know how it works, i have an ambulance to respray and if it comes in on time ill use it for that. cant wait!

Viewing 15 posts - 616 through 630 (of 668 total)