MoCoke
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whooaaaaaaaa!!!!!! i won???? no way!! :silly: lol i never won anything in my life… ever!! wowww thanks everyoneee!!!! Happy Holidays to all!!
if you do decide to replace and get a used quarter panel, rough cut it from the donor car with a reciprocating saw, then take it to the shop and remove the spot welds one by one. but i agree with the other guys, try and straighten it out as best as you can and if possible repair it. its good practice.
yea i agree the aluminum is easier to clean, i used to worry about seeing how much i have in the cup but ull begin to notice the weight difference of an empty vs. full cup in no time.
how bout the old Caprice or the newer impala?
cant wait to see the progress!! post more i love these types of blogs
[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]MoCoke wrote:[/b]
[quote]its pointless? lol foam wont prevent rust, or provide any structural integrity to steel. instead use a flexible wand and apply an undercoating[/quote]According to the tech sheets it does.[/quote]
for a chassis type frame? never herd of that. ive seen and use it in pillars and other light steel cavities but never on the chassis
i air blow the walls, ceiling, fan and doors, then sweep it and mist water on the floor between every job. as far as filters go i change them about every 10 overalls. scrape the fan and spray the booth an enamel white yearly.
its pointless? lol foam wont prevent rust, or provide any structural integrity to steel. instead use a flexible wand and apply an undercoating
horse power is as important as tank size, with HVLP ull need at least 5 hp, but 7.5 works better. sounds kind of backwards but the best guns and materials need lots of air to do the job rite and look good
what type of booth is that? how do u like it? and how much does it cost?
id only trust that thing with flipping my mattress lol, what could you possibly do with that thing that you cant do with a 2 post lift?? doesnt make any sense to drain all those fluids to risk your life and car.
3M makes a good sander, wont take bust your fingers! its faster then the regular DA’s and doesnt consume so much air. as far as sanding goes, 80 grit is more then sufficient, finish with finer paper and Norton is a good brand. it shouldnt take you more then 3 hours if your really removing a lot of material. most cars i sand which are typically full size Crown Vic’s take any where between 45 mins to 2 hours depending on the condition of the original paint. as far as the factory primer goes, dont sweat it, youll have to reprime anyways since your using such harsh grit
the thing i hate about waterborne even though i never used it yet is the shop temp has to be so high as to prevent freezing, which i guess means either keeping your heat on all night or heating the mixing room all night, and then the flash time of water is just ridiculous.
was it just me or was the deck lid on the red taurus a bit high on the right side? lol good work tho, how do u guys like matrix?
i dont think the cd’s or books work, besides them still being outdated, the information is always about safety and tools. waste of time and money to me, you can do what i did and just learn as you go and look at pictures of work in progress and try and guess what others did and just apply. this field is all experience and its gonna take a few screw ups to become a pro at it. best of luck