MoCoke

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Viewing 15 posts - 646 through 660 (of 668 total)
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  • December 15, 2009 at 6:50 am #17904

    lucky!! i havent had a major collision job in months.

    December 15, 2009 at 6:47 am #17903

    i dont think a shrinking disc or heat is nec. just hammer the steel around the dent

    December 13, 2009 at 8:04 am #17784

    someone suggested before to spray the car in primer and then shoot the jambs in color with the doors off, reassemble, shoot the exterior in color and then clear the whole car inside and out. i liked that idea and i tried it on a collision job. it does do a pretty good job but you need to mask the jambs well so the paper doesnt stick to the doors.

    December 13, 2009 at 3:27 am #17775

    nope the curing lamps wont work. its called power coating because it comes out of the gun as a powder. the oven makes it melt and flow to make it look like paint. i think it needs like 400 degrees Fahrenheit or higher to cure. only takes like 10-15 mins to bake. i guess u can use a regular oven for it, might even be better since they can be big for like rims. id shoot for something natrual gas

    December 12, 2009 at 6:45 pm #17766

    [b]Jinx wrote:[/b]
    [quote]good point… does it have to made of metal and have the sprinklers, or can you use frame and drywall with siding such as FRP like you see in restaurants?

    just thinking? :huh:[/quote]

    i have a hand made booth but we made it with cement block walls and I-beam and sheet metal roof. it was built to replace a booth that was made from 2×4’s and sheetrock. i wouldn’t use anything less then heavy gauge metal or concrete. as far as the sprinklers go it was a requirement from the fire inspection so we installed water sprinklers but i never keep water in the pipes ever to prevent a leak that would destroy work. but now they have dry chemical sprinklers which in my opinion is cheaper to install since you dont have to run piping across the shop. but as far as heating the booth in the winter thats been the real nightmare. i was thinking of installing a boiler, running radiators around the perimeter of the booth but that just takes up so much space and collects dirt. it looks like its gonna be time to buy a ready-made booth with heat.

    December 12, 2009 at 6:49 am #17755

    never use that stuff. in fact i wish someone would scratch up my car so i have a good reason to paint it… again! lol my dad had an 86 GMC Full-size Jimmy back in the day and every year he would paint it a different color. i think in total it had 8 different colors not including primers and clear and body filler before the paint cracked so bad it was time for a strippin.

    December 12, 2009 at 6:45 am #17754

    yea the exhaust wall idea is clever although that booth would never pass for commercial use since its not fire resistant.

    December 12, 2009 at 6:37 am #17753

    id rather cut and buff then over reduce and have to deal with runs and sags. 90% of the time i dont cut and buff cuz it just takes too long and the customer never really wants to pay for it, they just expect it to be done free. so to make my life easier i spray two coats of clear and then reduce the 3rd coat a little. it sort of melts everything down smooth in my opinion.

    December 7, 2009 at 6:48 pm #17584

    hey welcome, but damn that looks like really good work, what type of materials do you use and brands??

    December 7, 2009 at 6:46 pm #17583

    use epoxy primer and block, use polyester primer and block, apply again and block, urethane primer and block, and then sealer and wet sand with a block. sounds like alot of blocking but thats pretty much the only secret to it. as far as the block goes, invest in a series of different blocks, try and use the biggest one as much as possible in a diagonal fashion. some guys say use a paint stick and wrap it with sandpaper. although that might work for something really small, its ridiculous to attempt all that blocking with just a paint stick and anticipate results. if paint sticks were really that powerful we’d be paying alot more for them

    December 7, 2009 at 4:46 am #17573

    our hoses go bad after about 3 or 4 months, i wouldnt blame them they go through alot of abuse, as far as painting goes i use the new flexible hose, its really lightweight and doesnt get in the way like the rubber hoses. theyre a little bit more expensive but they dont go bad as often, i think the one in the booth has been there for last year now. heres a link to the one im talking bout
    http://base-images.cygnuspub.com/images/Products/PTEN/2008/May/300×300/Matco_FlexzillaairhoseN_PTEN_0.png

    December 6, 2009 at 2:30 am #17555

    that looks like clear coat. i see it often on cars that are repainted with cheap clear.

    December 5, 2009 at 7:41 am #17512

    its kinda slow but lets get more galleries up of work in progress and stuff like that. plus an alert that lets us know if something new was added besides the ones already in place for discussions

    December 4, 2009 at 7:31 am #17464

    was going thru some of my old chemistry notes, and apparently we can recycle thinner without buying one of those expensive machines. all you need to do is safely heat the thinner to boiling temperature and somehow capture the condensation. that condensation is the “new” solvent. btw, recycling thinner requires use of fuel (something to make the make the heat) so doesnt this just defy the purpose? just flush it down the toilet! lol thats my new answer

    December 4, 2009 at 6:48 am #17458

    [b]ding wrote:[/b]
    [quote]such a nice car. can’t belive you jambed the back like that. then your gonna put it all back together and tape it up. would have been so nice without tape lines in those jambs :whistle: :whistle: :tv :tv[/quote]

    got to agree with you Ding. i hate seeing guys going so far on a car and then cut corners as soon as its starting to take shape.

Viewing 15 posts - 646 through 660 (of 668 total)