MoCoke
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thanks for the input everyone, but if i use 800 grit, sand scratches wont be visible after i clear?
did u tint the sealer to be as close to the color as possible? also, i can have an issue getting any color to cover right if i dont use an old basecoat i have lying around as the initial coat after the sealer. not only does it help with coverage but it can also highlight a scratch or pinhole that wasnt even visible during the primer application. doing this, i save money by buying less color. a pint can go a long way doing that. I never tried Diamont, but i used to use PPG and it did an good job but like i said in a previous post Debeer makes a basecoat that goes a lot further then any other brand i tried before. i over reduce debeer and it still covers in as little as 2 coats. i throw a 3rd coat for metallic orientation even if it doesnt need it just because im left over with so much paint. like today i ordered a pint of B96-P for honda and i only used a third of the pint to paint the entire nose and blend both front doors.
every time i buy an expensive paint gun it turns out to be really crappy, the last one i bought was a devilbiss which sucked completely, and before that a Sharpe. Heres my guilty confession: i spray with ATD guns now. yea theyre cheap but i have no problem with them mottling paint or zebra stripes or whatever. the pattern isnt that small or large, i mostly do overall paint jobs. the only issue i have with them is the lids, which is easily avoided if u convert them to a pps system. Personally i think you can shoot the best looking paint with the cheapest gun if your technique is right and the air supply is plenty.
i pour all my waste thinner, paint, left over clear, primer, etc all in a 5 gallon pail. when it gets full i leave the cap off until the thinner evaporates and the paint hardens then just toss it away. i did that with all the old enamel paint i had, just keep the lid open and give it a week.
recycling thinner is just a waste of time and money to me. compared to the cost of a quality recycler which most of you see to agree sucks and the cost to maintain it, i find buying fresh thinner the least of my expenses. If your looking to save money on solvents, i use Five Star urethane reducer on any basecoat system, whether it be reactive like DBU or regular like DBC, it works excellent. My paint distributor always argues with me on it, but he doesnt paint cars for a living.
i was going through sanders like there was no tomorrow, until i bought the hutchins model. it worked well until it broke about 9 months later so i got it fixed under warranty and worked well until it broke again. Right now i have the new 3M sander and it works really well, no issues with it (thank god) and its not that expensive compared to other name brands (weird for 3M)
most hardners come with a paper insulator beneath the cap, if its lost or damaged dont count on your hardner lasting very long. anyways ive had bad experiences with those lines of clears. have you ever tried the new morton line up of clears? the 40 glamour clear has to be the best stuff i ever used. so far ive used over 120 gallons and ive had no problems with it. it sprays incredibly easy, flows excellent, and the shine is unbelievable, even after 2 years the cars look like they were sprayed yesterday.
throughout my career ive bought loads of crappy tools, but the one that topped the list had to be a viking straight line sander. it would work fine freely but once i put it on the surface of a car it would lock up. i kept having this problem with all brands of straight line sanders until i bought a hutchins hustler. that was the last straight line sander i bought and that was about 9 years ago.