Mr. Morton
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Well, how is it? had to sand it yet? Two tone? re-repair?
BTW, how much water was your putting in the Autowave? 40 to 50% in metallics is perfect.
:rock
B.A.S.F.
B.etter A.sk S.ikkens F.irst
:dnc
[quote=”gtome” post=30390]A while back a guy told me about some sort of alcohol you could use as an anti-static. Anyone heard something like this? Seems like he said isopropyl alcohol mixed with distilled water, but I cant really remember now. Its winter time now and I am noticing more static on the parts I paint. Im sure I could get anti-static wipes or something, but if there is a more economical option, it would be better or course.[/quote]
Sikkens Anti-Static Surface Cleaner. Works great!
[quote=”Jayson M” post=30167]yes it is a nice product but they still need to work on their color match to peterbilt,kenworth,freightliner,volvo,imron colors.once they get that dialed in it will be great[/quote]
:agree
[quote=”jimmo” post=30169]I didn’t know you could use the LVX or LVB (purple) on the W400, Ive used them before on an LPH400. I ended up getting rid of the LVB, it was meant for really high metallic colors. I used it a few times and it was alright, you had to use it at a ridiculously low pressure and it felt slow so Id often go back to the LVX. I haven’t used the W400 in quite a while but that PSI (32-35) sounds awfully high from what I remember running it at for clear. I’m a tad confused on the thread in all honesty, to the best of my knowledge the LPH is meant for base and the W for clear and high-solids.[/quote]
[Does the LV2 cap work on the W400lv (which comes with a LV4 air cap) ?]
The W400 LV2 1.3 will work well for all “car paint”, sealer, base, or clearcoat. It is my favorite setup for spraying clearcoat if you want an exceptionaly smooth finish. Thicker, higher solids “truck paint” the 1.4 may be better, I’m not sure. The LV2 tip/cap is similar to the SATA RP set up. They are both reduced pressure, or high efficiency conventional spray guns. The LV4 has the split tip or pre-atomization tip with a larger opening on the aircap. Any W400 can be converted to the LV2 set up if they are still available, I think they are. Also, the PSI is differant between the two tips. They LV2 is “legal” up to 36 psi, I think the LV4 only goes to 22 or 26, I dont remember for sure.
Good luck and be safe.
:cheers
Sikkens Autowave
You have one of the best spraying guns ever built just the wrong tip size. Get a 1.3 fluid tip and needle, make sure they are for the LV2 and stay with the LV2 aircap. Some will want to sell you the LV4 setup but don’t do it. Trust me on this, the W400; 1.3; LV2 at about 32 to 35 psi is freaking awesome.
:spraywelc:
The new Sikkens BT LV650 line is really working well. It has a fantastic basecoat clearcoat and single stage system as well as the epoxy and highbuild surfacer and sealer. Another cool thing is all the products use the same hardener and reducers.
How did you strip the car? If you used paint stripper, you are done man. The chemicals from the stripper leach into the glass and will cause blistering. Also, what was wrong with the paint finish you removed? Had to throw away the SMC body panel years ago due to battery acid damage, did all the steps to neutralize the acid, sanded it down to the plastic, built it back up. It came back twice with blisters, put a new panel on and had no more trouble.
:kofee
Speed it up!
I have seen it many times; it is called “bumping”. Typically it is caused from too slow of clear in an air dry environment. First make sure the spray booth/car/you are as clean as possible. Next, revert to a thinner two coat application with a long flash between coats also use faster combinations of hardener and/or reducer. An accelerator may be required at 20C (68F). Lastly, make sure you let the booth run as long as possible after you finish spraying. The combination of these things should help. If you do try a slower system, it may get worse but there is only one way to find out.
Good luck!:pcorn:
:exci
That is bad ass!
I have to admit that it scares my just a little though.
:woohoo:
[quote=”Jayson M” post=26340]Post pictures of the problem areas,it will be easier for us to figure out a plan.If it was media blasted with fresh paint peeling everywhere and you dash problem doesn’t sound promising.Chances are good that you might have to strip it off to see what the last shop covered up….[/quote]
:agree
You say “media blasted”, what was the media? I just hope it wasn’t baking soda; it will ruin a good car if it isn’t neutralized correctly.
What basecoat? If it is a thinner viscosity solvent base like Lesonal SB, the 1.3 will be fine. The trick with that gun is run it close and quick. Don’t try to use it at 5 to 6 inches, it will be slow and use more paint. At 3 to 4 inches that gun has a very quick stroke and is a miser on basecoat. Of course you will need to back up on the last coat for metallic colors. It was great for solvent but I did not like that gun for water at all so I went back to a SATA. Tekna sprays water great also.
:cheers
GFS is the best booth on the market, bar none. Their new horizontal driers are really good but I still like the Garmat fans the best. Standard install is three fans, four is much, much better.