Nick M.
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Insurance will try, but don’t tuck your tail between your legs man up and get your labor
Get a good estimating program like CCC pathways. Don’t write them Like “I could fix that in 2 hours”. Most decent technicians can kill the time allowed for repairs. Don’t miss the little things like haz. Waste removal, set up and measure, that kind of stuff. Tear downs are nice when they are possible. Never undercut yourself on labor, and good luck :rock
downdraft seems to work best. the big stuff is slightly positive pressure and good air flow
Hmmm….4q2. Toyota gold right? see this color alot, spray it like anything else. I aint scared of no color. :hunt
Used to use spies solvent, now using spies water. Which one do you have? Any questions about anything let me know. :spraywelc:
V-out the crack. I use a dremmel tool or what ever you call it. Then feather the outside a little for a little mechanical bite. Find what ever you use for fiberglass repair, not tiger hair, but the fiberglass resin and such. Apply it. rough it out. Then proceed to do your filler work. That’s assuming you cant get to the other side. 2 sided repairs are always stronger than one sided repairs. :cheers
Gtome, I agree if this place isn’t here for us all to learn from each other, then what is it, so we can all act like we know it all? Seems like it maybe. Epic battle goin’ on here. A guy I used to work with used to say “keep it simple, stupid.”. I take it as stick to the basics. Proper application, Get your metal decent, Get your filler straight, Pinhole coat with putty, and a minimal amount of primer. Don’t be afraid to post for help, just avoid the people with the giant egos weighing them down. lol :headsmack:
Im not sure what slick sand is but I don’t like the sound of it. lol When and where to use a DA is going to be a judgment call you’ll have to make on each repair. I prefer doing my filler/putty/primer by hand, but I might slightly level filler or putty with a DA to start to save on sanding time. I like my first coat to be decent so I can cheese-grate it level, then block. sometimes another filler coat or sometimes I can jump right to putty. I also always do my primer blocked wet with 600. But each repair is different and it’s not always so black and white. Find what works for you and keeps time decent.
Hard to make out the pictures, but if you can get ahold of a mig welder i’d rather see pins tacked on and pulled with something rather than drilling holes. Or for that matter being a bedside, you should be able to get behind most of it and hammer and dolly.
:agree That was my post but I didn’t mean to be anonymous. Oops
Pretty much everything I can think of has already been said. A thinner recycler is helpful.
Looks like a chain saw man. lol Never used one though, let me know how it works!
My old sata 3000 was like a garden hose with a 1.3. Try chokin’ down the fluid.
I usually drape paper over area with a nice straight line, then fold it up leaving a soft edge. I usually use a SEM aerosol. A lot of the fade is in the angle and distance you’re spraying at. Use a few coats with appropriate flash times to get the build. Hope this helps. :cheers
Speaking of the 3M PPS liners, has anybody else been getting rolls of the green 3M fine line tape in the box of the big ones? I think 3M is giving them out as a demo or something, but I have a nice little collection of them now. lol