Adam
Forum Replies Created
- Posts
I bump mine up to 25-28 psi for cheap limco clears, 20-25 for HOK UC-35 and BASF clears. The BASF and HOK clears lay down much, much better for me. Especially the UC-35.
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]
just dont use the colored ones be a pro an use the black ones :lol1[/quote]whaaat? I thought were colored to match your vehicle :blink:
wow and you didn’t even have to deflate the tires like I do lol
looks good
[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
[quote]Pretty impressive to stone, think i seen that truck in another thread.[/quote]yeah, he fixes one little dent, then posts it 8 times to make it look like he’s busy lmao
j/k
pits=good orange peel hiders lol
I painted some motorcycle wheels once and they were very textured and it hid any peel I might have had hahah
Just looked at my post and it [b]looks like I said[/b] they look like a$$ haha but I actually said they look like a byotch. Sorry.
Those wheels look like a bitch with all those changes in distance from the gun. Did you just dial your pattern down to accomodate it or dial fluid back? I dial fluid back or speed up on surfaces like that. I hate changing my pattern b/c then I have to change my fluid and my air.
well any runs that I can see in the pics lol
I always tell people a run or 2 is much easier to sand out than orange peel all over.
wow, you did a great job with that clear for some of that stuff to be vertical and not get any runs.
I guess what I don’t understand is the application procedure and what it actually replaces in traditional masking. Does it replace the plastic sheet we use to cover the rest of the car?
So, you still use tape to tape up the molding around the windows?
[b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]i have the stuff from AFS. company i used to get my booth filters from. put a link below. it reminds me of dawn dish soap. even smells like it. i would use it as a booth coating. i reduce it 50% with water and after we clean the booth and the walls are dry i spray a coat on. it dries and when we wash the booth out everything just melts off the walls leaving it bright white again. works really well. i have a 55 gal drum of it here. i figured it out and at the rate i use it that will last me aprox 12 years. :lol1http://www.afcfilters.com/pc/index.html%5B/quote%5D
wow, that’s an idea I’ve never heard of. What do you apply it with on the booth walls?
Stone is right. It’s the one thing on the scales that doesn’t come off with thinner or aircraft remover
Try to scratch/pick it off[b]pnlbtr4life wrote:[/b]
[quote]Dont hammer and dolly too much without annealing {heat} first, it will crack-split. It doesnt appear too bad in the pic so heat shouldnt be necessary if you hit it like only like 3 times. Dont smash the hem completely flat because it WILL crack. Even if you do your only talking a little mig action and a buff with 80 grit, piece of cake really. Aluminum can absolutely be repaired and anyone who told you it cant has absolutely no clue. I find most replies dishing out advice on 101 totally inaccurate and humorous, down right appalling actually. Stick with this site for correct answers. ;)[/quote]wow, that’s a little intimidating right there. Idk about any of that panel beating stuff unfortunately. I’d like to learn, but preferably not on my baby. :unsure:
What ‘special’ tools do I need for aluminum?
[b]Doright wrote:[/b]
[quote]Was it a real factory aluminum hood for an old Muscle car?[/quote]It’s for my Mitsubishi Evolution, stock hood. Mine is bent from a minor collsion and I wanted a straight one.
thanks guys.