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Charlie not sure how many different sizes are available to you guys, but the bigger ones are better the bearing on the end of the sander lasts much longer
The small ones if in daily use take quite a lot of abuse and with them being smaller they can wear out a bit quicker
this is the size that is popular
i have never tried waterbase over a polyprimer
But in the past many years ago when i have tried solvent paint over any areas spot primed with a poly primer ot has always ringed / mapped.
As mentioned above it would require sealing, at least when using solvent base coat, water is non aggressive so it may sit on it all right.
These are very popular in the UK, all the panel guys have them.
Similar to what Ben mentioned when ever any panel guys go on a thatcham course, similar to Icar, they always come back and the first thing they do is order one.
If you have a panel i.e.. quarter joint or rocker joint that has been butted and mig welded, you can concentrate your belt on just the weld and you are not wearing down the surrounding metal, lets face it panels are ultra thin these days
They are great for grinding down plug welds, in fact i dont think anything can beat them for that operation.
But, there are generally two sizes small and large, here in the uk they are known a 10mm belt sanders or 20mm belt sanders i have had both for many years, and always use the larger one, as most people do, the smaller one is fine but the bigger one is much much better and it can still get into tight spots.
on the belts dont always assume 40 grit will be best for heavy work, as i have tried most makes of belts, and have found the 40’s wear out quickest, most people i know are of the same opinion, the most popular grit people go for is 60 grit.
If you can afford it buy both, if not buy the bigger size first, adding the smaller one later.
Most infra red lamps have a flash off function, flash off function can be used for drying between coats.
Over the years I have used medium and short wave lamps, Last year i bought a new shortwave model, they are a major improvement on medium wave models.I always bake my primers, even if they have sat overnight i would still put the lamp on them for ten or fifteen minutes in the morning, if the primer is fully cured, i find there is much less chance of any sinkage etc.
I have two lamps a three cassette model and single cassette model they are used daily and i wouldnt be without them lol.
o would be interested to hear input on this one
i avoid matt clears for this very reason
I am extremely anal about any nibs in paintwork
[quote=”jim” post=36376]I just figured in a system like the BASF. We’re the toners and pigments are the same for both the water and solvent. That the matches would be similar from water to solvent. But the binders and additives must effect the colors some.[/quote]
Good point !! one i brought up myself many years ago
Yes when i first started using water back in 98 i remember asking at the water demo, if a standard shade matches in solvent does that mean it will match in water, same goes for a popular variant of a colour, light shade for instance
They said yes……… well they had to didnt they or that would mean their variant fans would have to be different from water to solvent !!!!
But it was all bull, all the special shades we had sorted for certain colours were no longer applicable after the switch to water.
Though i have to admit water matches are generally better.
i am told there is very little technology put into solvent these days, as water has been pretty mainstream for many years.
When i stopped using spies solvent about 8 years ago i noticed at that time any brand new colours out match’s were very hit and miss
older colours were still okay as the formulas were tried and tested.I think you will find as times goes on getting a match in solvent will prove problematic.
also any colour decks/chips that have been supplied by your paint company if they are years old you are as well throwing them in the skip lol, paint companys are trying to move away from supplying chips as it cost many many ££/$$ to create these fans and supply to the whole industry with them, they will have us all on colour cameras in the next few years, thats how the new spies system works i believe.
[quote=”Ben” post=35786]It has been quiet here.
For me, I have just been busy as heck at work. Our town got hit by 3 hail storms this summer. The last one was catastrophic, over 15,000 auto hail claims reported so far. Thousands of homes (including mine) have been extensively damaged (we have softball sized holes in our siding, our asphalt shingles are dented and almost smooth, the paint on our deck and stain on our fence were basically blasted off, some wood trim was actually split etc).[/quote]
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[quote]The last one was catastrophic, over 15,000 auto hail claims [/quote]Wow that must keep you busy Ben
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[quote]Thousands of homes (including mine) have been extensively damaged ([/quote]Thats a bummer long as you and the family were not harmed that is the main thing .
We just never seem to get hail damage, i have never seen it in the flesh in my whole life, there was one hail storm south of england a couple of years ago where many cars were damaged, that is the only one i have heard of in the uk.
Who Supply’s you Max ??
I use max meyer waterbase also use 0300 clear, we get our max meyer from Brown Brothers, they have a good budget clear coat called ” quickline”
Quickline sits on the waterbase very nicely, having said that i have been told it is very similar to 0200
We thin it at 2 to 1 no thinner, if you add thinner you will see a drop in gloss
quickline is a very good product for the price
Only Brown Brothers can supply quickline, it is there own clearcoat.
i get asked regularly.
” i want a full respray” my reply is very few people get them these days due to the cost.
Then they point out about half a dozen bits on the car and say “just as well to respray the whole car”.
Then i just give them a prices somewhere around 2.5k- 3k is enough to quieten them, and end up get the half dozen bits done and not a complete.
Buy a milwaukee one, i have been using them since 09
If you remember when purchasing to fill out the extended guarantee online, you get a whopping 3years guarantee, really good polishers mine get used al the time.
crater, fish eye, silicone
They are all the same world wide lolFor me it would depend on the amount if it were just two or three, or thereabouts, i may fill them with a flowable putty and seal prime and paint.
If there were a lot it would be a full flat down and start again.
Full flat for just two or three may seem a little excessive imho, as i have done the flowable putty trick many a time and it has always worked
since we stated cleaning panels with waterbased panel cleaner we see very few fish eye’s these days, super clean air is another important factor.
[quote=”Andy T” post=35220]Better late than never! :blush:
Another had exits along the length of both side walls, down at floor level. That was as near as dammit ideal, with a really even spread of heat and airflow.
[/quote]
The first booth i ever worked was like this an old burntwood circa 1982, it was the first proper oven in our area at that time, though it was about 15 years later before i used it.I loved it got some real clean work in it, i am curious as why it is not regarded as an efficient setup, surely it is close to full down draught as you can get.
[quote=”Jayson M” post=35164]
Slight positive pressure is your friend [/quote]LOL health and safety would close down a shop for using a positive pressure booth, very unhealthy
Though i do recall working in them and the jobs were much cleaner, did my best paintwork in one a good few years ago,
And that was in down draught side extraction, sadly cant get away with it these days.Jayson i am not picking on you lol you do [b]awesome work[/b],i have one question though why do you think it is necessary to jam panels, i can see the point at a stretch very light pastel three stage colours.
I have found over the years most of the contamination nibs that appear are actually already on the vehicle, clean clean.
Also blow and tack your masking around the area that you are painting
Airborne dirt can often be caused by excessive negative pressure in the spraybooth, when the top filters become blocked even though they still look reasonable clean, the booth will try and draw air from anywhere it can personnel doors front etc.
A good clue to excessive negative pressure is when booth [u]is on spray[/u] and you open the personnel door slightly if you feel a big rush of air hitting you as you are holding the door ajar by maybe six or eight inches, this is a good sign your booth is needing some attention. Your magnehelic gauge should aslo tell you this information
