nick
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Sounds like a good idea Jimmo, and would be a great benefit to many smaller end shops, and who knows where it might lead.
I use a programme called GA3
You can
electronic appointments for each bay
Invoice’s
Create estimates
job cards for techs
Stock Control / Inventory Management
Order Management
Employee Database
Customer Management
SMS Vehicle ready for Collection txt’s
Powerful Searching, Find information fast ( search by customer name, vehicle make model, etc)Funnily enough this programme is always advertised on this site “garage Assistant” it’s a big orange box
I am a beta tester and moderator for the forum of their product
You could download the trial version it may give you some ideas
http://www.sws-solutions.co.uk/software_products.php
have you tried giving the panels a coat of clear binder first before blend
This give a far better laydown on silvers and golds I use Lesonal with is made by Akzo and this is a recommended procedure on very light metallic and pearl colours.
The tinter in question on Lesonal is 02 not sure what it would be on Sikkens, should be easy enough just be the clear binder that goes in most colour mixes.
This does work i have done this many times, you dont have to chase the blend just seems to laydown a lot better.
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]Thats is very interesting Nick. I am not sure what to think of it really.[b]Help bail you out when your in a pickle![/b]
Thanks for posting this Nick![/quote]
Yes that’s what i thought maybe handy when it’s one of those Friday’s when everything is going wrong lol
:blush: :blush: :blush:
You got me i forgot to take a very first picture before tear down
But as ding kindly pointed out 😉 (cheers Ding)
You can clearly see the van thats is primed up and jammed is the same van here is another pic of the other side before paint
[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/IMG00184-20100410-1337.jpg[/IMG]
And another couple now it has been lettered
[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/2Large.jpg[/IMG]
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[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/1Large.jpg[/IMG]welcome higgy good to see another brit on the site
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Good job looks great
Thats what i like about this forum, nobody here is on their high horse nice and friendly.
If these pics were posted you know where, people would have plenty to say about all the masked items.
Looks good to me, keep on posting Dag great to see stuff from all over the globe.
Top job looks good 😉
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]nick@dunsdale wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]They work really well Nick. You can cut temp and time of bake back and the car comes out harder.I have heard the Jun-Air booths with the Quads are something else. I am in a 13 year old Blowtherm, but it still works great.
Have you ever heard of using indoor/outdoor carpet on the floor over there Nick? It helps keep alot of dust down, which is very important with the quads[/quote]
Carpet you have me intrigued lol do you mean carpeting the booth floor, tell me more[/quote]
Yes sir you are correct. I have indoor/outdoor carpet on the floor. It won’t mold and can take water so when I pressure wash the booth walls for a new booth coat I will hit the carpet real quick and shop vac it.
In the mornings I will run over it with a household vacuum(hoover) to pick up the dust from overspray. Since it is indoor/outdoor it is very tightly woven and does not frey or come apart. It costs about $100 to do a booth and will easily last a few years.
It is also easier on the feet and knees. It is grey in color so the overspray doesn’t discolor it.[/quote]
lol you have my interest here, think i am going to try this definitely
how have you fastened your carpet to the floor glued ??
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]They work really well Nick. You can cut temp and time of bake back and the car comes out harder.I have heard the Jun-Air booths with the Quads are something else. I am in a 13 year old Blowtherm, but it still works great.
Have you ever heard of using indoor/outdoor carpet on the floor over there Nick? It helps keep alot of dust down, which is very important with the quads[/quote]
Carpet you have me intrigued lol do you mean carpeting the booth floor, tell me more
Yea Ryan you hit the nail on the head with the addmision of using quads
Waterbase requires enhancers to dry it
be it
Quads
fans
overhead blowers
handheld blowersYou can paint solvent anywhere, the same cant be said for water you need air movent and lot’s of it.
Having said that i would love the chance to use Quads i here they are awesome, great to use on bake as well speed up the baking process by 30 odd percent.
Well i am kinda split in two
Solvent can be much much faster when pushed
( i would argue this point to my dying day lol, i know some people think the opposite but it just aint true)I find very large areas, landrover discovery bonnet in silver for instance i would rather do in solvent, i could do it much faster
Any dirt nibs or imperfections solvent basecoat is a country mile easier to flat
But
Water blends very easy
water in non aggresive
Water does not ring up on rub throughs i.e where you may rub through on a clearcoat, when sanding out a scratch.
Akzo have had major major problems with solid red’s in water base, i use Lesonal witch is a branch of akzo nobel.
We had major problems with just about all solid reds as bad as two in ten would match.
The one’s that did not match were a country mile away, very dirty and brown looking.
There is now a new tinter out for Lesonal that has helped a lot, all the solids reds have been re-formulated, there is now a choice to mix either the old formulas or post 2008 formulas.
The reds now match as i would expect quite good
In this day and age we should be able to panel paint solid colours.
I panel painted reds in spies hecker solvent edge to edge for years and hardly ever had any issue’s ( that was in basecoat) some of the high solid red’s tended to be a little to orange for my liking.
As far as i am aware this problem is with all Akzo brands.
[b]sagikun wrote:[/b]
[quote]LOL those are really some good answers. i ALWAYS under estimate my repair times no matter what. so 6 hours would most likely turn in to 10.just for fun, lets say its a re-due for color match and slightly wavey lines. no bondo.[/quote]
Yep closer to 10hrs than to 6hrs 😉
okay why are we painting this car scratched ?? Filler repairs ??
Just that you mention blocking ??
Lets assume it is scratched one end to the other
I would say 6hrs is pretty tight, you would be doing anyone a favour at that time allowance.
If you are r&i door handles, mirror, scraper moulding etc
I would be wanting at the very least a days work out of it 8hrs
Plus satin silver can be a mile out on certain paint brands :blink:
nice job stone looks real good, the girl is gathering skills
sorry i forget her name :blush: