nick
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:birth1
:cheers
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Have a great birthday, and a few cold ones now doubt
[b]Andy T wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]nick@dunsdale wrote:[/b]
[quote]Your on the money Andy it is indeed, Lechler Green T.I.[/quote]
Thought so. I’ve certainly sprayed a fair bit of that in my time! :)[/quote]It’s a good build primer, one of the best i have used i really like it, block’s so easy and feather edges really well.
[b]MoCoke wrote:[/b]
[quote]wow i really like your work! what steps or materials did you take for plastic adhesion? weren’t those trim pieces the textured type?[/quote]Yes they were all textured
Clean all plastics with a plastic preclean left to sit awhile.
Sanded 240 disc
one coat of plastic adhesion promoter
there coats of build primer
Dry sand 500
base and clear
done it this way many times and never had a problem.
Your on the money Andy it is indeed, Lechler Green T.I.
thanks chap’s there was a few hours involved always takes a little longer than you think lol
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]shoot if my booth moved air like that thing i wouldnt bother with a respirator either :blush: the kids ol man aint no slouch with the gun either ;)[/quote]Whoop’s neither it is :blush: :blush:
Bondo naughty naughty
Where your mask
Just out of interest who else starts at the bottom of the panel and works their way up
Some do some dont
Most of the time i start at the top, i seem to lay it on a lot wetter if i start at the bottom.
And this can somtimes on occasion cause movent for me lol :blush:
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]howdy rob cant say ive ever met a smart repairer though :lol1 :lol1 good ta see ya here :welc[/quote]Lol here’s one for the usa guys
see if you can work out what S.M.A.R.T. repairer stands for, no googleing lol
Apology’s if i just said something stupid, and you already no what it means :blush:
P.s. i do know what you ment bondo, when you said never met a smart repairer lol neither have i, most of the smart guys are plumbers or joiners :blink:
[b]Andy T wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]nick@dunsdale wrote:[/b]
[quote]If you go to close you can separate the base coat :blush:[/quote]
Oh yes, I’ve seen that done before!If I’m blowing hand held I’ll stay back for 30 seconds or so until the base has flashed a little, then get in close – blowing [i]across[/i] the panel – to dry it really quickly.
Nick – have you ever tried the WindJet type blowers? Yellow, flat, and fan shaped, a bit like a ducks foot, lol. I had one for a while (until someone ran over it!) and they really do work well. Small enough to stick in your pocket too, so it’s always handy.
EDIT: Like this:
[img]http://www.expresspaints.co.uk/catalog/images/TOOXM110.gif[/img][/quote]
Yes i have one of them as well handy little tools
.
I have a sata one witch hardly works anymore it is over ten yesrs old though lol
I also have two DeVilbiss ones witch work well
And i have three cheap one’s they work as well as the DeVilbiss one, they actually move more air, maybe a little to much if you open them right up.
If you go to close you can seperate the base coat :blush:
GTI PRO’S are indeed good guns and they are coming down in price
Mine has been put to the side at the moment I now have new painter and he has a couple of sata’s that he like to use.
When ever I paint anything I use gti pro for base and still have a standard gti for clearcoat.
[b]never seen a post do that before i just copied the link and it displays the item :blink: [/b]
Hi Neil
I also have a small bodyshop in the uk, and getting insurance work without an insurance approval as we call it in the UK is pretty hard, all the big boys have it sown up.
The requirements are very high.
fleet of courtesy cars
recovery truck
specified spot welder
miracle repair system is a requirement of quite a lot of insurance company’s as well.
Large work force.
pick up and delivery service ( i.e pick up cars within 4hrs etc)
dedicated estimating system ( usually audatex)
often a specific paint type as wellunfortunately the small bodyshops cannot provide all these services, even though they would do the job just as well , if not better.
Manufacture approval is maybe an easier option, I have no insurance approvals, but I am going through a process at the moment to gain Mitsubishi manufacture approval.
Try some of your local dealers maybe pick up some warranty work, i know Mazda are having big problems with the some of the Mazda models, new rear quarters and sills are being fitted under warranty, pays reasonably well around £38.00 per hour, witch is more than an insurance company will pay you.
Great stuff bondo i am sure it will be flawless when finished 😉
Wish i had as much space as you have
[b]ding wrote:[/b]
[quote] As Bondo says its splendid when its Blended ;)[/quote]splendid when Blended lol must remember that one i like that 😉
[b]pnlbtr4life wrote:[/b]
[quote]Is that a grand cherokee with a trailer hitch hit? Typical short rails with kinks at wheel arch? If so its gonna take about 4-5000 psi rearward and push upwards at the same time and some windows in the floor to vibrate them rails in order to fix it correctly. Not sure if that puller is gonna do it.[/quote]Your the man pnlbtr4life you really do sound like a very expeirenced panel man. Excellant discription of damage.