nick
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[b]airhead wrote:[/b]
[quote]its for this type of damage
[img]http://i50.tinypic.com/2qs7zmc.jpg[/img][/quote]That one needs a little additional time on the bench, needs a little pull to close that gap on the quarter to decklid. And their is probably a little localized damage to the inner quarter and rear light area.
the bonded glass removal is only gonna be worth about 1.5hrs.
all in all if you pressed all the right buttons and squeezed the estimate for every dime you could maybe get around 30hrs. In the real world that would total a vehicle of that age in the UK.
[b]p.s. sorry i should read the post’s more carefully :wak it would appear you want a diagram for replacement procedure and not the time factor involved.[/b] :blush: :blush:
i would have thought it would be a fairly average time between 20-25hrs this would include a one way blend into the door.
If you were blending into bootlid/decklid and rear bumper there would be additional time for this as well.
also not sure if the quarter glass is bonded on this model, there would be an opinion time entered here as well.
most estimating software assumes you are re-finishing the vehicle to close factory spec.
nick
[b]Stone wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]Canuck wrote:[/b]
[quote]Looks good…can’t imagine useing gasoline instead of W&G – my garage would blow up when the furnace kicks in![/quote]dad (THE OLD BOY ) told me how they used thin their enamel paint with gas back in the day :blink: :wak :pcorn:[/quote]
lol that must make me old as well, i have seen it done, seen it heated up as well to get a good viscosity.
nice job dag 😉
how did who ever repaired the Merc manage to repair that quarter without taking off the rear bumper ………. o and welcome 😉
[b]Underpaid Painter wrote:[/b]
[quote]The 30 minute air dry clear would be CC931. Very good stuff. It mixes 3:1:1 using UH904 hardner and your choice of US2,3,4 reducers. I use it almost every day and most of the time I use US4 reducer in it so it flows a little better. The HPC15 is also very good stuff. Its very fast and looks great. You can mix it two different ways. 5:1:1 of 4:1:1. 5:1:1 being fastest. You can get a great finish using 4:1:1 with the US4 in it also. However, it does slow it down a bit but not much. Film build will also slow it down a bit too. This Clear uses a differnt hardner than the CC931. It uses UH80. Hope this helps![/quote]Thanks for that some good info 😉
very nice 😉 well done you have made a great job of that
[b]Andy T wrote:[/b]
[quote]This is certainly one of the slower sites that I visit, but not so slow that it puts me off coming here. The content is worth waiting for anyway ;)[/quote]I agree intial loading of the site is what i notice most.
But it does not put me off :cheer:
[b]Andy T wrote:[/b]
[quote]Yes, I’ve got the 500 & 800’s 🙂 I’ll use them on a panel that’s going to be based, but not a blend panel. They’d probably be ok like you say, but with some of the Jap cars I get in (particularly Nissan) one good rub with one of those and you can be through the clear to the base, then you’re blending yet another panel :blink:I don’t suppose it was Neil Bennett that did your demo was it? I know he did the north area, but not sure he came up quite as far as you, so it could have been Andy. Great guy Neil. He came to work for me for a bit after leaving Mirka, but he’s now gone back to a tech sales job with U-Pol.[/quote]
Ah sorry lost the thread a little no i dont use them on the blend panel, usually just go over the blend panel with the polarstar 1000 disc the grey scotch the edges with waterborne degreaser.
No never met Neil Bennet, it was a guy called Stuart Denholm that did the demo for us.
Yea i know what you mean about the Jap stuff, suzuki grand vitara older style lower plastics, you can scotch brite right through the clearcoat if you are not carefull lol
[b]Andy T wrote[b][/b]:[/b]
[quote]If you just want some small samples to try Nick, [url=http://www.i4detailing.co.uk/acatalog/Sample_Packs_1.html][b]here’s[/b][/url] a good place :)[/quote]cheers andy i will give that a try.
The wool pad you mention [url=http://www.cartersconsumables.co.uk/3m50390-wool-perfectit-buffing-150mm-p-1534.html]here[/url]
Itake it you need a backing pad for it ??
Never really used wool pad would be interested to give it a try.
Do they need cleaned a lot[url=http://www.cartersconsumables.co.uk/3m50390-wool-perfectit-buffing-150mm-p-1534.html]here[/url]
[b]Andy T wrote:[/b]
[quote] then go around the edges with an Abralon foam backed pad dampened with some solvent based W&G remover.[/quote]Have you tried the p500 gold flex for the edges it is also foam backed
and a box of this last’s for ages you can get 800 as wellBut 500 is no problem on all colours whem=n we had the mirka system demo, that is what they recomended for flatting edges etc prior to basecoat application
[img]http://www.restexpress.co.uk/acatalog/15-113.jpg[/img]
[b]Andy T wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]i have heard alot of good things about the 105. i might have to try it out and compare.[/quote]
105 & 205 are the best combination I’ve ever used. Maybe it’s because they’re a throw back to the old days of non diminishing abrasives, but they just suit my buffing style so well. They’ll just keep on cutting for as long as you want them to, and the cut level can easily be varied by pad choice, speed, or pressure, and even though it’s a heavy cut compound, the 105 finishes down really nicely.Here is a wrecked bonnet (hood) that I tried it out on. Full of swirls, scratches, you name it. One run over with 105 and it looked too good to throw away!
[URL=http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Paint%20Correction/Fiesta%20Bonnet/P1000199Large.jpg][IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Paint%20Correction/Fiesta%20Bonnet/th_P1000199Large.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Paint%20Correction/Fiesta%20Bonnet/P1000205Large-1.jpg][IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Paint%20Correction/Fiesta%20Bonnet/th_P1000205Large-1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
And a quick run over with 205 really finished it off nicely (apart from the OE peel)
[URL=http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Paint%20Correction/Fiesta%20Bonnet/P1000209Large.jpg][IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Paint%20Correction/Fiesta%20Bonnet/th_P1000209Large.jpg[/IMG][/URL]
Unfortunately as I say above, my company won’t buy it as they think it’s to expensive. Maybe they need a lesson that a few pennies spent on products can save them a hell of a lot more in labour time, which is any ‘shops most expensive commodity![/quote]
Very nice Andy i have never tried the compounds/polishes that you mention, i may well give them a try.
I like Mirka’s polar star p1000 discs, i have also used various makes of 800 dics and they do the job fine as well.
The reason i like mirka’s polar star range is they seem to last very well, one disc will do a medium sized panel no problem. The only thing i would recomend when using fine discs such as 800-1000 give the panel a good pre-clean before sanding or you will go through multiple disc’s
I now use a completely dry sanding system dont use water at all
Apart from flatting nib’s in clear i have tried many dry sanding arrangments, and have found 2500 wet and dry paper very hard to beat.
I have tried a few compounds over the years, i was a Farecla G3 diehard for many years.
I tried G4 when it came out ment to be for high solids and well cured paintwork…….. but it was the worst compound ever just seem to glide across the flatting marks, did not want to cut.
I use 3m fastcut plus as far as i am aware it is the latest generation of fast cut i like it not much splatter, cuts real good and the price is okay.
[img]http://www.cartersconsumables.co.uk/images/3M50417%20Fast%20Cut%20plus.JPG[/img]
For me Dynabrade D.A. (dual action) sand and grind for roughing out and paint removal.
Rupes palm sander with ultra small orbit of 2.5mm the smaller the orbit the finer you can finish.
Ideal if you want to colour sand using systems such as 3m trizact and great for sanding primer.
both hooked up to dust extraction
very very nice, your a talented dude
wish i could do the artistic stuff, but i dont have a artistic bone in body lol