nick
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[b]zarbat007 wrote:[/b]
[quote]Post pics of the BMW E36. 😛Whatcha doing’ to that car? :whistle:[/quote]
Ah was just a tiny job on the driver’s door, small patch of rust on the lower edge
nice job bondo looks real sweet
there is a few things to factor in here.
What colour is it ?
when was it painted (how recently)
what type of paint
does your sander have a fairly soft pad on it
does your sander have a small orbit i.e. 5mm or even better 2.5mm
is this your first ever attempt at colour sanding ?
the age of the compound should not affect it that much as long as you gave it a good shake before use, it may have deteriorated slightly but not to much.
You need to do only small area’s at a time maybe a foot square keep going over it till the compound is completely gone, dont just keep loading on the compound.
[b]pnlbtr4life wrote:[/b]
[quote]the hyundai emblem is about an inch too far to the right :whistle: :stoned :kiss: i just have an eye for that *** :cheers[/quote]Bout an inch to low as well 😉
top job ding, you are a very expierenced tech well done
[b]jim c wrote:[/b]
[quote]bloverby, that is right. there is a huge shop that opened a year ago down the street. they use all premium ppg line. ppg gives them 25% discount plus the jobber gives them another 25% so they are paying 1/2 price for all the paint. .[/quote]I agree with this it is the same here discounts of between 40% and 50% are very common but it is the price to start with that is expensive maybe between $300-$400
for a gallon of clear discount down to around $150-$200 per gallon thats still dear.Considering i can buy lesonal compliant clearcoat
clear
hardener
reducer for around $150.00, and remember that is the whole deal 9ltr’s R.F.U.
(ready for use) I would not pay over $150.00 dollars for one gallon of clear alone.over the years i have never put all my eggs in one basket i.e. having a couple of d.r.p ‘s who may drop you like a hot potatoe, i have work coming in from quite a few different directions.
My shoe box size shop is bought and paid for so i have no rent, i dont use high end paint i use middle of the road akzo nobel lesonal, so i can make a profit on paint.
I dont know how the big boys do it using some of the high price paint might make a little profit, but if they have to do it agian for any reason i imagine the job will go into negative equity.
If i was a bit tighter on materials i could probaly genarate a little extra yearly profit but i like to spoil myself with materials always pretty well stocked, i hate :cens running out of stuff, thats when you lose money if people are standing around doing nothing.
[b]Sayyar wrote:[/b]
[quote]I have several scratches on my car. After watching some video in Youtube and other sites I decided to do the job.
I got the original pain from the dealer (agent), and then it was very hard job to find the clear coat here in my country. I just got the spray (ready for spray with hardener), I wished there was a small bottle as I saw in the video.Anyway, I followed the steps:
1- Sandpaper the small area with 1500 or 2000 grit sandpaper.
2- Clean then fill the scratches with pain by using small wood needle.
3- After the pain dry I sprayed the clear coat after covering the rest area.Unfortunately, it wasn’t good job because I faced two disappointed problems:
1- After polishing the area that I sanded still the same (dull) nothing happened as I saw in videos.2- The clear coat layer won’t go even with sandpaper, I tried but nothing happened. The problem when you look at the car directly or form the angle you will notice the marks of the clear coat even when you touch you will feel that there is a layer that not equal to the rest of the paint on the body.
I’m asking for your experience about two things:
1- How can I fix sanded areas ? It was amazing in the video how it was back after polishing.2- [size=4][b]How can I remove added clear coat so I will get on layer? What do I need to use?[/b][/size]
Thank you[/quote]
You may be able to remove the clearcoat that you applied with some paint thinner, as long as you dont leave thinner on to long you should not damage the original paintwork.
If you soak a cloth in paint thinner and wring out most of the thinner, so that it is not dripping all over the place and keep wiping the painted surface over a period of 10-15 mins you may soften it enough for removal.
This is quite risky procedure and you should only try it if you are confident.
Also a stone says maybe the cutting compound you are using is not aggresive enough to remove the 2000 grit sanding scratches.
This is the compound that i use
[img]http://www.spraykings.com/images/products/4015/thumb_1237.gif[/img]
[b]Sayyar wrote:[/b]
[quote]So Stone: What do you think I should do now to fix the dull area and the remaining spot of clear coat?[/quote]Could you post an image of the affected area.
looking good bondo, your the man for the big panel repairs 😉
I like your floor setup for pulling, simple but very effective
[b]Andy T wrote:[/b]
[quote][b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]Nick, paintbooths in the States run on slight positive pressure. When we got our Quads installed the guy from Junair told me about the differences between booths in the UK and here. Funny how some things are so different. How much negitive pressure are you’ll supposed to run?[/quote]The general advice over here is to run at around 10 Pascals of neg pressure, which is only a fraction of a PSI. I’m running the booth pictured below, and if it goes into positive pressure for longer than a few minutes, an alarm will sound. If no action is taken it’ll eventually shut itself down, such is the concern here for the dangers of positive pressure.
The reasoning behind it is that if your booth is running positive, then any leaks could cause isocyanates to seep into the ‘shop. By running slightly negative, you get the slight disadvantage of dust maybe being drawn in, but no risk of toxins killing your panel beaters. Personally I’d rather keep my booth dust free, but I can’t paint anything if my prep guys are dead! :lol1
[IMG]http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/nn385/Duluxdude/Work/DSCF0037edit.jpg[/IMG][/quote]
Andy i have seen that picture somewhere before ?? was your bodyshop featured in a bodyshop mag ???
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]Nick, paintbooths in the States run on slight positive pressure. When we got our Quads installed the guy from Junair told me about the differences between booths in the UK and here. Funny how some things are so different. How much negitive pressure are you’ll supposed to run?[/quote]To be honest Ryan i am not sure of the actual required negative pressure, as i dont have a magnehelic gauge installed on my booth. I really should have one :blush: .
I just keep an eye on the pressure’s i know when it changes from negative pressure to positive pressure the filters need changing 😉 .
I remember the days when we had positve pressure booths, i reckon the jobs were a lot cleaner then, as the booth was not sucking outside contamination in.
I am still surprised that you have positve pressure booths if the seals are not in tip top condition this type of booth will release Isocyanates into the open workshop.
[b]Andy T wrote:[/b]
[quote]A wipe down with a water based degreaser helps too I’ve found. They tend to be a water/alcohol mix, with anti static agents added.[/quote]This is what i do and it works pretty well especially on the subaru bumpers, the ones that come in raw black plastic always seem to be the worst.
[b]Brad Larsen wrote:[/b]
[quote]We used something similar that had a radioactive isotope in it. Worked great but cost to much. Let us know how that thing works. I had a similar problem back when we had a cross flow booth, but the problem went away with a new pressurized positive flow down draft.[/quote]Hi brad do i understand your post correctly your booth runs on positive pressure ?? and not negative pressure.
maybe i am not understanding the term [b]positive flow down draft[/b] correctly
Positive pressure booths are highly illegal over here. been that way for a long time now
Top job looks real good well done