nick
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If anybody is going to cobble together a home made setup like i have, I recomend that you go for a half decent small household hoover one that runs at a nice slow speed and is nice quiet nothing worse than a hoover roaring it’s head off,
[b]bondomerchant wrote:[/b]
[quote]thats really cool btw where did ya get the blocks???does mirka make those 2 those are some nice looking blocks maybey ya could get me some#S ya got my att with that set up[/quote]Yea the blocks are made by mirka they are multi hole.
I kid you not, they take that much dust away you actually think your are not sanding any material off simply because you see pratically no dust.
But as soon as you guide coat the panel you can see you are removing material.[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]I just picked up some 320, 400, and 500 grit d/a paper last week. Have yet to use it yet.How do you have your vacuum set up? Is that a regular shop vac? We don’t have a vacuum set up but I was going to try and put a portable one together.[/quote]
Yes the hoover i am using is just a household one,and i just made the stand up i also joined an extra smaller bore hose that fit’s onto the block like the one in this link below.
http://www.mirka.co.uk/acatalog/Sanding_Blocks_-_Abranet.html
I will say you really need the [size=4][b]correct block [/b][/size]to get maxium extraction, as the blocks have more holes than regular blocks, but i really mean what i say the exraction that this system provides is awseome, I am very immpressed
[b]pnlbtr4life wrote:[/b]
[quote]Do to owner wanting more profit on materials ive been on it for a short time 80&180 da paper. Ummm i guess it cuts good without clogging too bad and wears ok. The down side would [size=4][b]be the adhesive as it doesnt really adhere to the pad very good[/b][/size], even really clean new pads. I also have been trying sunmight paper which i think is a better product, especially their continuous roll paper. Keep in mind this is the coarser paper that weve been cheaping out on, nothing finer than 360 because these lines in fine paper are crap IMO.
Weve also been playing with cheaper fillers and i gotta say that i cant find any difference between evercoat products specifically zgrip + 416 metal glaze and keystones comparable fillers. Im convinced its the same stuff under generic labels no kidding, much cheaper too.[/quote]Are sticky d.a. discs still in wide use in the U.S. mainlly used by commercial truck shops over here.
lol 40 dics can be lethal weapons when they go flying across the bodyshop when they refuse to stick to the backing pad.
[b]jimmo wrote:[/b]
[quote]We are currently using plastic but at a previous shop we used[size=5] [b]a product called slime[/b], [/size]might have been by 3M. It was pretty good anyhow.[/quote]3M Slime now there is a blast from the past i used to use slime in the early 90’s bit of a novelty product tried it for awhile but went back to wondermask polethene
Chinko our cat celebrating christmas
[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/chinko1Medium.jpg[/IMG]
Meeko our cat and rabbit
[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/meekandrab.jpg[/IMG]
Alright Scott, nick from the UK here, i have a small bodyshop in scotland.
Welcome :cheer:
Here is a link i posted on another forum.
It is relating to mig brazing,
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=8877&highlight=mig+brazing
thoes honda silvers/greys rarely match edge to edge.
If you are confident enough to do the bonnet/hood blending over the fenders should not be a problem.
Go fo it 😉
nice job Ding the panel work and the paint work top notch :cheer:
Suzuki so easy to work on get a door handle out in no time, even when you have to take the inner door trims off.
Toyota pretty good most of the time.
Honda good as well
Hate VW doors specially when the damn horseshoe clips ends up in the bottom off the door, thats a hour lost by the time you strip the trim out and remove and install the big ,metal plate.
[b]Joe@FCAB wrote:[/b]
[quote]Yeah I was a Sikkens customer for almost 10 years before I switched to BASF.. BASF is about 15% less right now with my discount than autowave.. I would use the HS clear if I switched back, that is what we were using.[/quote]If you are looking at akzo nobel you should have a look at Lesonal it is their cheaper brand, it uses the same chips and variants as its dear counterpart Sikkens.
I am told for every ten lesonal mixing shemes installed akzo install one sikkens scheme.
I use rupes dust extraction system like in the pic below
I have two sanders connected rupes palm sander 6″ soft pad for primer flatting etc
and i have a dynabrade sander with a hard pad filler work.
I bought the swinging arm and hoover set up through ebay, it was a bargain 😉
[IMG]http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp299/dunsdale/rupes.jpg[/IMG]
Hi Dag
Nick from scotland here another corner of the globe 😉
Your cars look great keep up the good work, and keep posting great to see work from all over the world
We flat and polish every job.
Note how i say flat and polish and not nessacarly denib and polish, saying that there is usally a bit of dirt somewhere 😉 .
I dont care how clean the booth is or how cllean the painter gets the job, a newly painted surface still has that slightly raw look.
And a good burn up with compound takes that just been painted look away. And i also usally like to compond the first few inches of the adjacent panels, just to further the look of a relativlely untouched vehicle.
I do no shops that get pretty clean work and dont compound and polish anything, they get away with it 9 times out of ten.
But there is always that one time and customer complaints really get up my nose :blush: so i try my best to eradicate any possibility of an unhappy customer.
[b]P.S. like the new header on the site JIMMO[/b]