nick
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great looking new place ding, i bet you and the family will be excited moving there.
And the big plus a great looking workshop :exci
You lucky so and so
Even with the credit crunch that place with the land and outbuildings would be expensive in the Uk
yeugh lol right in the strong part, got your work cut out there Ding, nice to see a work in progress pic’s of a repair of this type, separates the mens from the boy’s lol.
How many hours do you think you will have on it
what kind of rack do you have bracket or sill clamps whoops i mean rocker’s not sill’s 😉
Looking good ding, very nice job.
[b]flungshit wrote:[/b]
[quote]there is a part one to that clip but i cant seem to find it he shows you how to make the blade take the corners off and bend it into a u shape the next time i get A FLOW ADJUSTMENT METER lol ill try this method[/quote]This will be the first part i think
looks good ding, and you even showed us a run, well done most people would have avoided taking that photo lol.
We all get them sometimes as long as it not all the time.
Me thinks that might be a hard one to polish out though, unless you are a run removal expert 😛
i notice you are now sorted with this colourm but i notice Candy Plasma Blue comes up in Spies Hecker under the code 528.
Dunno if it’s the right one but it is there
i will be interested to hear how you get on with quads Ryan, on both spray and bake cycle’s
the jun air system is supposed to work very well when used on the bake cycle.
it can drop bake times by around 15mins, a lot of people are just under the immpression they are only used on the spray cycle to flash off the base coat.
metal temp is reached much quicker on bake cycle with quads on plus there is a far more even metal temp all over the car, including the lower parts of the the car including the rocker panels
looks good well done
all the above mentioned
bumpers smoothed, no inserts and groove filled flush ??
rear arch’s also look fatter but it maybe just the colour that makes them look that way
I love seeing the end result from this type of work and it really does separate the men from the boys.
But how do you make it pay, the hours involved must be just about endless when you see it in its raw state as it is at the moment.
I mean there will be hundreds of hours on a project like this.
Will be satasfiying to see it roll out the door though. and it get’s another oldie back on the road
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]Nick, something you may want to look into is an Iwata WBX. In the states Iwata sells an orange cap called the LVX and it is for basecoats. It comes on the LPH-400 which is hvlp. In the UK the sell the WBX which is a W-400lv with a gold cap for basecoat. I have heard through the grapevine that the orange aircap and the gold are one in the same. After hearing this I put my orange cap on my W-400lv and used it for waterborne basecoat and loved it. The metallic control is great and it wets up the panel alot nicer than the LPH. I think compliant guns work better than hvlp for waterborne basecoat in my experience.I have also used the SATA wsb and I thought the Iwata had the edge. It uses a lower pressure so it was easier to keep my overspray down and control the color.
Something to think about! Either way I don’t think you could go wrong with either gun as both are very nice.[/quote]
Cheers ryan
I will give the Iwata some thought also i take it this is the gun you refer to
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]I own a couple RP guns. I have a 2000 and a 3000. I think the RP works better for clear. As far as what tip size it varies with me. We use a couple different clears so I have a couple different tip sizes I use. For Spies Hecker 8600 I use a 1.2. Actually the RP with a 1.2 is the only thing I can get that clear to spray with. All other clears I use a 1.3.For basecoat I have used the HVLP model(green star) and it works pretty good. Not better than my Iwata or my Tekna.
What are you wanting to spray with the gun? Base or clear?
Have you tried the GTI Pro with the T2 aircap for clear? That setup is supposed to be close to a RP.[/quote]
Yes thought i would get the Sata greenstar for base application, i am using the gti pro at the moment for waterbase base coat application.
i always used a 1.4 for clearcoat i like it wet lol.
I am a bit of a gun junky
[b]JimH wrote:[/b]
[quote]Hey Nick,Do you, or anybody you know can help me figure out the under hood color of a 65 Rolls?[/quote]
pre 70’s colour information is difficult to come by as nothing was computerised in thoes days here are some roll royce codes you may be able to contact the admin team on the site and they maybe able to shed some light
http://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/colour_codes_rolls_royce.htm
and this guy seems quite into his roll royce’s, and he does say on his contact page tech questions aare welcomed
http://www.rrsilvershadow.com/Emenu/dm.htm
[b]ryanbrown999 wrote:[/b]
[quote]The advanced G3 and the G10 swirl remover is what I use. I was thinking about ordering the G4, thanks for the warning! I think it works much better than the new 3M compound we have over here.I have another question for you. I know you have said before that you use Devilbiss guns and I was wondering how you liked the GTI Pro? I have recently bought a Tekna which is supposed to be the same thing as a GTI Pro, they just renamed it for US sales. No matter what I try with the gun it doesn’t spray clear very nice. It works well for waterborne basecoat but not for clear. I didn’t
know if you had much luck with them?[/quote]Ryan i have a GTI pro but it is only set up for waterbase,
I also have 4 standard GTI’s two have 1.4 set up’s in them witch i use for clear, cant remember the air cap size of hand i will check on monday.
What i will say is the other two standard GTI’s are set up for base coat it is a different cap on the standard GTI for base, and it does not spray clear very well at all.
So it could well be the same for the GTI pro, devilbiss say you can spray both clear and base but this is not the case. I would say that for a GTI pro you would be better with a T1 or T2 cap
[size=4]http://www.devilbisseu.com/cat.aspx?id=138[/size]